Do I Have To Use Tc?

I have an IPV4 and I bought it for battery life (dual efest 2800 mah) and I really like the feel. I use a Subtank Plus and kanthal coiled rdas in wattage mode with the TC turned off. Can this damage the mod? I haven't had any problems with using it this way. I get a full day of sub ohm-ing or dripping and it's everything I wanted in a mod with features that I may use in the future. I just don't want to find out later "you really should have used the temp control, that's why you ruined your mod". Please advise.  


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Ipv4 Tutorial

Hello everyone, I feel like I should post this in the Beginner's Thread. I bought an IPV4 today and it is my first temp control, non-built-in battery mod. I need help! LOL like with everything. I tell you my gear. The IPV4 of course, a Nitecore D2 charger, a pair of Imeren 18650 batteries, 5 Kanger OCC nickel coils and 2 .3 Atlantis coils. Along with an Atlantis V1 and pair of Kanger subtanks. Now I know, some of you are probably thinking people like me shouldn't have temp control but please humor me I want to learn.
Basically my first question is where do I start? How do I get to temp control on this mod? Where should I set it for these Nickel coils? Should I leave it at the same setting for regular coils? How do I get to joules? Where should I set those? Ok, let's just start with that. Is there a place online I can get a tutorial?
Sorry to be like a kid trying to learn to ride a bike, but as anyone that owns one of these things knows, the instructions don't say much. Thank you all for any help given, I know there are some real pros here.  

Temp Controlled Mods

So I'm looking into buying a temp controlled mod for my next purchase. Ideally, I would be getting the VaporFlask with the DNA40 board. Problem is, I dont have $300 usd to drop on it. Sooo....

I was thinking about the FT clone, and was about 3 clicks away from making the purchase when a friend tells me about the IPV4 pre-order over on the bay. The DNA40 has temp control and goes up to 40 watts (duh) but from what I have read, the IPV4 also has temp control and goes up to 100 watts. I'll never use all 100 watts BUT sometimes will vape above 40 watts. I like that both are dual 18650 and have the temp control function (I'm dying to play with some nickel wire) I'd really like some opinions

Any thoughts on the VaporFlask clones from FT? Would it be worth it for me to wait for the IPV4?

Cheers ECF!  

Anyone Own Or Ever Vaped The Smok Tct Pro?

So while home sick (yes I was actually sick) today, several reviews sold me on the SMOK TCT pro as THE tank for my IPv4. I was looking for a high watt tank that could also make use of temp control. Didn't want another Atlantis and the Kanger subtank is good but it's just not quite enough for me in temp control mode. Anyone have any experience with the SMOK TCT or VCT pro tanks? Please share!  

How I Ruined Tanking

Finally got fed up with my subtank dry hits, and the cost of my nautilus coils so I decided to dig out my mutation and dark horse a couple weeks ago. Now I fear that I ruined tanks forever!! I don't remember being this happy with dripping last go around. After a weeks and a half of dripping I tried my tanks again and they just leave me wholly unsatisfied.... Is it a lost cause?? Have a ruined tanking!!  

Tempted By...

I've been tempted by temp control. I am an avid mech user. I love my REO. I love my SMPL. I love my G-box. I have a 40w VF clone (no temp control), but I haven't been using it that much. My local B&M now sells The VaporShark rDNA40, but is temp control really worth it? I've been having a heluva time with my subtanks - they always taste burnt now even at low wattage. Would the nickel be any better?
The other thing is, if it's worth it, do I replace the chip in my VF with a real chip with the temp control (I really stink at soldering) or just say to heck with it and get a Shark?
Need input...lots of input. lol


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk  

Cleaning Nickel Wire (ni200) Builds?

Hey folks,

Have been getting into vaping on temp control (DNA40) devices with Nickel Wire builds in RDAs. Does anyone have experience with cleaning these builds to extend life? You can't dry-burn Nickel Wire the way you can Kanthal so I haven't figured out a way to clean these builds other than rinsing as well as possible and rewicking.

Hate the idea of having to rebuild every time but if that is what needs to happen I'll do it.  

Batteries. Which One?

I have the ipv4 on pre order (can't wait) im stuck on the battery choice. I want to find the best choice for a vv/ww mod. With the most mahmp life and amp draw load. I was thinking about the LG HE4 . 2500MAH 35A High drain. I heard the efest purple has great battery life. But I enjoy lower builds. .15-.2 occasional .1 . I just want the safest battery with the most load and lifespan. Anyone with some info plz enlighten me. We gotta stay safe. Thxx  

Evic Vt 60w

Evic VT 60W by Joyetech PREORDER | Vape Street


eVic VT 60W PREORDER

ONLY $65 DURING PREORDER!!

Presenting the eVic-VT 60W, its new cutting edge technology of temperature control, embodying the concept of a healthy alternative lifestyle. eVic-VT features a super large OLED screen, supporting VT-Ti (Titanium)/ VT-Ni (Nickel)/ VW mode, and battery capacity of 5000mah.
The Variable Temperature (VT) brings out a different flavor experience with the change of temperature settings, not only improving the taste,but also saving battery and liquid consumption. eVic-VT is not your typical vape, it’s an evolutionary start.
Features:
Size: 47*25.5*85.6mm
Capacity: 5000mAh
Output mode: VT-Ti/VT-Ni/VW Mode
Temperature Range: 100-315℃/200-600˚F
Output Wattage: VT Mode:1W-60W
VW Mode:1W-50W
Output Voltage: 0.5V-8.0V
Resistance Range: 0.05-1.0ohm for VT mode
0.15-3.5ohm for VW mode
Color: Racing Yellow, Cool Black, Dazzling White
eVic-VT Visual Display:
VT-Ti mode/VT-Ni mode/VW
Wattages/ Voltages
Atomizer Resistance
Battery power/Puff/Time
ETA: Approximately mid June 2015  

Efest 18650 Batteries Not Lasting!!

So I have (2) 3100mAh Efest batteries rated @ 20A and (1) 2500mAh Efest batterie rated @ 35A. I'm experiencing a pretty annoying problem with all 3 of them and that is they aren't lasting nearly as long as I feel they should be. I can EASILY vape through a battery in less than one hour while heavy vaping. I'm aware that I am sub-ohming and that requires more power from the battery but these are just going way too fast and something isn't right. I have a BEC Pro mod that takes a single 18650 battery and I'm vaping an Aspire Atlantis tank @ 35 watts with the .5 ohm coil installed. I charge each battery fully with a Nitecore i2 before using them and it'll say 4.2V on my mod & on my Smart BEC app it will say 100% as I take my first few puffs but then starts draining at a ridiculous rate until they are dead. I am not aware what the mod efficiency is on my BEC Pro or if there might be something not working properly within my device. Can someone please help me find what's wrong with these? Maybe some of you have eperienced this problem with Efest batteries in the past? Thanks in advance!

Edit: These are genuine Efest batteries as I bought them straight from the manufacture on Ebay.  

First Experience With Rdas - Some Advice Please

I got my first Derringer today. Wanted to try it immediately although I bought it with the DAY AFTER (May 2106) in mind... but you know how it goes, you get a new toy and you want to try it out.

I'm really not into very low ohms so first I went for a single coil - 26 AWG Kanthal, 9 wraps for around 1.3 ohms. But I didn't like the way that could be wicked in an rda. So then I put in two 28 guage coils which I had previously coiled for my other atties. Together they gave me .8 ohms which is sort of ok. But I still am not quite happy with the wicking. These coils are 2mm internal diameter and there's not a lot of cotton you can put in there. The taste is good but my wicking is nowhere as fat as I see in some pics online.

Any advice?