Ok so i recently made my little Hana clone with a genuine DNA 40 and so decided to buy myself a Squape R clone to use on it. as a novice to the world of RBA/RTA/RDA's this was my first foray and i thought I'd give my opinions/review/thoughts
1st making the clone - I'm not a novice with soldering and so i found the board easy to work with as long as i had the guide in front of me to work it all out. The Cigabuy Hana Enclosure was good as well with reasonable switches DNAsled etc.
BUT.... the 510 connector is crap! i had to fit it in with a hammer, its centre pin (non adjustable) catches and shorts on my aerotank when screwed on fully and to even get that far i had to modify it by removing the white plastic insulating ring and replace it with 2 sizes of heat shrink on top of each other.
other than that i put the up and down buttons in the wrong way round - but i'm leaving that element of stupidity as it makes it mine.
the Squape R clone or Traingle windows atomizer as it is from fast tech,
.... Fasttech takes ages BLAH BLAH BLAH .....
ok so it seems well made, no leaks from the windows no shorts on the deck, good click on the airflow,
but, neither the w or c decks fit the thing, at all, and i'm not hammering it in!!
so thats the bits about the equipment
now onto vaping,
1) wrapping coils is a PITA to start with! it looks easy, everyone makes it seem easy, but its fricken not every coil i wrapped was more like a spring than a coil!
2) when i started i had no idea how much is a reasonable wick, either using too much and it looking like a rabbit ran into a mousehole or when juiced in, looking like a bedraggled pathetic thing on the deck dead.
3) It was easier to make a coil with Nickel than Kanthal
4) once i had a coil built that worked, the squape leaked unti i realised i had to tuck the cotton into the channels on the deck.
5) vaping is very different on an RTA to a kanger tank, you have to pre click your button to let some vape build or the cloud is dry and hurts my throat, with a one second pre-hit i get what everyone is taking about - warm, moist cloud full of flavour!
6) temperature control is a PITA - yet more variables to play with to get it right, but once it is right it works, yup it works for me
So to round up i went from an MVP 20W on an aerotank with 1.8 ohm coild to a DNA 40 with Nickel coils vaping at approx 0.18 Ohms, i've still not found my perfect vape but i'm getting there, now to learn how to wrap coils, then move on to each new idea
Its a steep learning curve but i think worth the niggles, sore dry throat and PITA's of learning everything again.
I recently bought a Squape R clone from Fasttech,its ok but not what i was expecting, so i'm looking now to kinda move up in the RTA world, I can't afford an original svoemesto, erlkonigen or taifun, but is it worth getting a clone of one of these? my clone experience so far hasn't really been amazing, obviously its hard to differentiate between it being the fact its a clone or that, heaven forfend, i just don't like the squape style.
So heres the rub, do i try another clone of one of these other styles as a cheap way of seeing if i prefer another RTA style, or do i just stick the money into an original like the Lemo 2 ?
I'm not certain of what i really want to be honest whether its dual coil i need for the flavour and clouds i'm not getting from my squape r or if its down to the build deck/airflow/chimney/whatever but the hit from the squape only satisfies if i pre-heat it for a second and only take a quick puff then. otherwise its low flavour dry throat hit.
So I was wondering if there is any correlation between throat hit and temperature. I noticed that I feel a larger throat hit or end up having a sore throat when I use my tank throughout the day, but I don't when I just use my RBA and the same juice. So does a cooler vape lead to a stronger throat hit?
For reference, the tank (Lemo V1) is built somewhere between 0.4 - 0.6ohms (24g single coil) and the RBA (Doge Clone) is around 0.2ohms (24g dual coil). All coils are 2mm inner diameter and cotton wicked, but as would be expected, airflow is significantly larger on the RBA, but the vapor temperature feels to be warmer.
So I finally got around to putting a coil on the rba deck...my typical kayfun build, 28 ga @ 1.3-1.4 ohms. Everything looked good, coil tight....raised off the deck...screwed into the ohm meter....weirdness ensues....said 3.85 ohms...took it off, put it back on...said 4.6 ohms....looked to see if the coil screws were tight ...check. both tails tight under the screws...check. The coil deck screwed into the base...yep. No moisture in the base, nope. Put it on the ipv...said 7.7 ohms, then 4.2, then 3.90.............
Put the stock coils in the base, everything normal. Is there something I could be missing in the coil deck??? I got nothing else. No, I had not put the chimney on, so no short there. I may wrap another coil and see....I can only think that something is amiss in that little coil deck....or I am missing something in the build that is obvious. It's a really nice, tight looking coil too.
so in my pursuit of vaping above 200 Watts I made a fuse 3x24ga gauge wrapped with 36 gauge and I tried three coils. it came out .07 I Vaped it at about 375 watts it was a hot vape but the ohms were very low so I had a problem with power my DNA 250c was reporting 65 amp output so I took that and put in dual fuse 22ga gauge wrapped with 36 gauge I ran that build triple coil I used it at about 250 Watts. what I am trying to do is vape at about 300 to 400 watts with an ohm or .2 to .3. the inner diameter will be 5.5 or 5 mm I'll be using the kanthal core wrapped with 36 gauge and ni80.I'm trying to figure out what my next bill should be to try to vape above 300 watts the restrictions I have is it can't be below point 1 ohm or above .3 ohm I have two aromamizer plus has with the series deck The parallel deck a second parallel deck and a single coil deck. The single coil deck fit 6.36 mm.
I also have the aromamizer titan.
What gauge would you Clapton?
Sent from my HD1907 using Tapatalk
So I'm a toodle puffer. My normal set-up is a Joyetech Evic Easy and a Kayfun lite with unflavored liquid. The Evic Easy has a regulated 3.3 volt mode and an unregulated mode. I run the Kayfun (original V1) at 1.5 ohms, so I'm vaping at a whopping 7 watts.
Just on a whim, since I was ordering some supplies and stuff, I decided to try one of those new-fangled subtank minis...hey, it was on sale. This is my result after 2 days.
First, the .5 ohm was out of the question, so I primed and put in the 1.2 ohm OCC coil. Well, this was just not a good fit for me. The problem is, I think, the wire guage. I bet the coil is made from 24-26 guage wire. My 3.3 volts took forever to heat that wire. I had to hold the button down for 3-5 seconds to get any sizzle at all, and just couldn't get much vapor.
So, the next step is to try the rba base. This is very kayfun-like, and I built it the same way. Inspecting it, I found a burr on one of the juice channels, but filed that off with a needle file. I built a 1.8 ohm 30ga 2mm coil that turned out to be 2.0 ohm...oh, well close enough. Wicked it with my typical cotton ball and laid the tails across the deck.
I looked at the mouthpiece. Are you kidding me, looks like a tailpipe. Swapped to a favorite drip tip, turned the airflow to the lowest setting, and started vaping.
I've gone thru 2 tanks, and it's working great. Maybe better than my kayfuns. I'm going to try rebuilding the OCC coils for backups, and will likely get a couple more rba bases. The beauty may be how easy it will be to swap out the coil.
Hello.
So I think i kind like a cooler vape been getting some heavy lung feeling lately been vaping a 1.2 ohm single coil 28 g kanthal
cotton wick on kayfun clone v4 Tobecco, i would like to try like maybe 1.8 or a 2.0 ohm coil or is the kayfun v4 really better for
lower ohm coils I keep reading where the kayfuns sweet spot is like 1.2 - 1.5 i did lower my wattage from 14 to 12 but i like to seem some clouds more of a flavor chaser than a cloud person though
so i am just wondering if anyone has tried a kayfun around 2.0 ohms and what the vape was like
thank you
Got no idea what this thing falls into...
The MechLyfe Ratel 80W (8.5V). It uses an external 18650 battery and it uses an RTA build deck. I’m not sure if you can use pre-made coils for it though. You can use it in both DTL and MTL but with MTL it’s loose draw. You can’t adjust the airflow on the fly, you have to take the panels off to make the airflow adjustments.
The build deck looks nice and simple to build on. You might get away with fitting in an alien coil.
Above all I prize comfort in vaping, which means easy filling, easy disassembling (for coil rebuilding), no leaks even if I leave my tank on its side or upside down for a few days. I do not need clouds and subohming. I My current everyday setup is RG280 or RGM2 – shielded glass tanks (tough to break) with protank coils (easy to rebuild). Not a single leak for half a year. But I’d like something which is a bit bigger than 2.8 ml (as for RG280) and does not need separate coil bases (as for protank).
I have tried couple RBAs. A while ago I have bought on impulse (do not drink and buy) Fogger V4. Found out it needs two coils (too many for me). I have tried to build with single coil (plugging not needed holes with cotton), it was not bad, but it was a bit leaking. With two coils – too cloudy. And its tiny butt hole plugged with Philips screw! Just for refilling I needed a needle-nosed bottle and a screwdriver! Not what I call comfortable. Recently I have bought Erlkönigin clone for $5 – I was ordering other things, it was on sale and I decided to try it, it was practically for free anyway. And I liked it, but not so much that to make it my prime time device. Two drawbacks: still needed needle nosed bottle and rather tough to disassemble (because of its press-fitting o-rings).
So, I am ready to try another RBA and I am asking on advice.
It must have:
- Single coil
- Easy to refill and disassemble
Desirable features:
- Filling with eye-dropper bottle (not with needle-nosed one)
- Ability to change coil without pouring out liquid (desirable, but not required)
- Glass tank (I just do not know when to add juice if I do not see its level)
And what can you say about this one, does it fit description of what I need?
https://www.fasttech.com/products/3028/10009199/2050300
So I decided to try a 1,6 ohm coil on kayfun v4 clone Tobecco and I am using 28gauge Kanthal with a cotton
wick on a Rdna 30 and its vaping well at 15 watts I have a kanger subtank mini coming in the mail and here goes my question
So the kanger subtank states that with a .5 ohm coil i could vape up to 30 watts but the voltage comes in at like 3.8 volts
I was under the impression that the rdna 30 needs at least 4 volts to work which kinda brings me to my second question
What is the point of of sub ohms? cant i just build a 2.0 ohm coil or something like that to achieve the results as if i was subohming
I am very confused on this
thanks for the replys in advance
Oh yea is a 1.6 ohm coil at 15 watts a normal build or any recommendations for the kayfun v4 for watts and ohms thanks again
Just bought the Kangertech Subtank..... Was told I couldn't use my Max VG juice and I needed to buy some of their lower VG juice. I told the guy no thank you, I know what i'm doing and I can make it wick the Max VG.
Needless to say I got home, the STOCK OCC coil, .5 ohm, wicks my Max VG perfectly fine, even with chain vaping.
I ripped the pre-made coil out of the 1.2 ohm OCC head, and built my own .6 ohm coil in it, wicked it with Organic Cotton (Not KGD or Bacon, Just organic cotton from Walgreens) and it wicks perfectly fine with my Max VG.
I built a single coil .7 ohm spaced coil, wicked it with the double tails on each side, cut off to where it touches the deck, but not touching the threads, put the chimney cap on, and made sure the juice channel was free of blockage, and it wicks perfect with the Max VG.
No leaks, no dry hits, running each OCC head at 30 watts, and the RBA deck at 35 watts.
This is the original Subtank, 6ml for OCC and 4.2 for RBA, (NOT THE NEW 7.0mL version).
So let me hear it.... What have you guys noticed or seen about the wicking ideas, why has yours not worked?
WHY DO SO MANY PEOPLE SAY YOU CANT USE MAX VG ON RTA's, especially on the Kanger Subtank????