Saving A Used Subtank Occ Head

I'm only on day nine with my new MVP3 and Nautilus tank (started out with the 1.6 BVC) and I'm down here... Yesterday as I was vaping my MVP shut down and wouldn't turn back on. I had just full charged it but tossed it on the charger anyway and it came back on. Took a couple of vapes and BAM, down again... Put it on the charger again and it came on again but this time the display was flashing two dashes in the ohms section.

So, I switched out to the other head that came with it, had a few vapes and WAMO, down again. Plugged it in, came back up, couple of vapes and down again and again this other head now flashes the two dashes in the ohms section. Now here's the weird thing... When I popped the second head on it read 2.3 ohms. I didn't think anything of it at the time, being new and all, but when I just went to confirm which head I used first and second I read the stamp on the second and it says it's only a 1.8 ohm head.... Another strange thing is that as I was vaping on this second head I changed the watts to improve the vape after a couple vapes and I noticed it read 2.5 ohms, then after a few more vapes it went down with the flashing dashes.

When I took out the second head I notice there is juice in the very bottom of the bottom hardware, where the head is screwed into. I'm assuming this means it was flooded, but being a rookie I could be wrong. At any rate.... I'm not happy vaper right now In hind sight I realize I should have bought some extra heads, but again... Rookies make rookie mistakes right In my defense though, the guy at the shop said I should have been good for a month with what I had bought so I thought I'd be good. I uploaded a quick video to show the MVP3 display and the bottom hardware in case it was needed. You can see it he



So now the questions... What would cause two new heads to die like that, or are they dead? Would it be a head problem or a problem with the MVP3? Am I correct regarding the fluid in the bottom hardware being a result of flooding, and if so what would have caused the flooding and could this have been the cause of the dead heads? And finally... What type of wire can I use to rebuild the heads? I've been reading a lot and watching a lot of videos on rebuilding over the past month or so and hear about nichrome, kanthal, and caplan... Does it need to be a specific type of wire or can I use some wire that I have here that I used for other purposes? Maybe an old guitar string? LOL

I'm desperate here.... I need my vape!!! I don't have the cash to buy new heads until around the 18th of the month and there's a carton of stinkys in the fridge and I do NOT want to resort to them if I start going bonkers Any assistance at all is greatly appreciated.  

Just bought the Kangertech Subtank..... Was told I couldn't use my Max VG juice and I needed to buy some of their lower VG juice. I told the guy no thank you, I know what i'm doing and I can make it wick the Max VG.

Needless to say I got home, the STOCK OCC coil, .5 ohm, wicks my Max VG perfectly fine, even with chain vaping.

I ripped the pre-made coil out of the 1.2 ohm OCC head, and built my own .6 ohm coil in it, wicked it with Organic Cotton (Not KGD or Bacon, Just organic cotton from Walgreens) and it wicks perfectly fine with my Max VG.

I built a single coil .7 ohm spaced coil, wicked it with the double tails on each side, cut off to where it touches the deck, but not touching the threads, put the chimney cap on, and made sure the juice channel was free of blockage, and it wicks perfect with the Max VG.

No leaks, no dry hits, running each OCC head at 30 watts, and the RBA deck at 35 watts.

This is the original Subtank, 6ml for OCC and 4.2 for RBA, (NOT THE NEW 7.0mL version).

So let me hear it.... What have you guys noticed or seen about the wicking ideas, why has yours not worked?

WHY DO SO MANY PEOPLE SAY YOU CANT USE MAX VG ON RTA's, especially on the Kanger Subtank????  

Anybody know if the Subtank RBA head will fit the new Subtank Plus? I would assume so, but. Same with the factory heads, are they interchangeable?

Im asking because my original subtank got stolen but I still have the RBA heads and factory heads left and Im wondering if they will work in the Plus.  

I currently use a Nautilus for work or driving and I break out the rdas for kicking back or having fun. Well my friends, it's upgrade time. Too many tanks and my head is spinning. I'm a fan of Aspire but the Subtank Plus has my interest. I would love to hear what everyone thinks, especially pros and cons from owners of said tanks. Advance thanks.  

I need to buy another subtank, not the new subtank plus that looks like an over sized mini, the original 6ml subtank. Anybody know who still sells it? Everywhere Ive looked theyre sold out  

So I decided to get another clearomizer and the Donner by Amigo Itsuwa is what I got to replace my Aspire Atlantis.....
So here are my thoughts on it and it's just My Opinion:

Holds 4mls of juice - holds more juice so I'm not refilling my tank 2-3 times a day
.50hm Coil head is cotton & Kanthal wire & a wire mesh around the opening for better wicking ( You can use Atlantis coil in this thing and it's better in this tank then it is in the Atlantis) It comes with 2.
There's no notches or trying to center the coil head. It sits in the Clearo and just sucks juice lol
Great Flavor sub-ohm - The flavor you get from this is amazing, I was a little taken back bc I chose a sour raspberry and it really was more sour tasting then in any of the other tanks I had the same juice in
I personally like the drip tip but it's not for everybody
Adjustable air flow control is a wide slot - It's a slide around, but the draw from almost closed to full open is nice any way you wanna vape.
Vape production is great I use 10/90vg - 20/80vg


There are some things I don't like about this tank...
Priming the coil is a process - on a fresh coil the directions state to drop a few drops onto the coil, then once tank is filled let sit for 1-2 minutes prior to use. On your second fill of the clearo you have to let the coil sit for 2 minutes b4 use....I kinda wanna fill and vape, not fill and wait
Holding 4mls of juice is great, but if you can't vape 1ml of juice at the bottom of your tank it sucks. You can't vape the last ml of juice because the coil head sits to high so it can't wick the remaining juice.
I did find that when I put the Atlantis coil head in that the wicking was alot better then the coils that it came with, now this could be bc I am using a high vg juice.

So let's talk price....I bought this at a B&M so I paid A LOT more then what I've found online.
My price was $45.00
I have found these online for as little as $23.00
and for this price I would probably buy it again, not for $45.00
Iv'e been vaping on this for about a week now, I've gone through 2 coil heads in 4 days & now put the Atlantis coil head in it and am having better luck with it.
So there's my thoughts on my new clearomizer.  

Hey all.

So I've been vaping since January. I started out on a kanger ego and an aspire k1. Since then I've gone through aspire cf batteries, and finally made my way to my current set up. An mvp 3.0 or istick50w with my subtank mini.

At first using the stock occ coils with the subtank, I decided to buy some wire and cotton and here I am. Been building my own coils using the RBA section and loving it. I wick it properly and never get a dry hit, going anywhere from 18-25 watts, which is my preferred settings.

Now, it's only my preferred settings because I can't seem to go any higher. On either device. I get dry hits like crazy despite pancake wicking which I've specifically done to prevent said dry hits. I always have heard that it can possibly taste better the hotter it gets. And I don't mind a hot vape. But it won't let me try!

I'm well saturated, well wicked, and my juice can be anywhere form 50/50 to 70/30pg. I can do quick pulls on fully open, and slower toots on the middle setting on the subtank. I just can't go any higher than 25watts and I don't know why!


And that's not for just the coils I built. It's for the stock occ .5 ohm coil as well. And like I said all my cotton is beyond well saturated. Any help?  

So I decided to try a 1,6 ohm coil on kayfun v4 clone Tobecco and I am using 28gauge Kanthal with a cotton
wick on a Rdna 30 and its vaping well at 15 watts I have a kanger subtank mini coming in the mail and here goes my question
So the kanger subtank states that with a .5 ohm coil i could vape up to 30 watts but the voltage comes in at like 3.8 volts
I was under the impression that the rdna 30 needs at least 4 volts to work which kinda brings me to my second question
What is the point of of sub ohms? cant i just build a 2.0 ohm coil or something like that to achieve the results as if i was subohming
I am very confused on this
thanks for the replys in advance
Oh yea is a 1.6 ohm coil at 15 watts a normal build or any recommendations for the kayfun v4 for watts and ohms thanks again  

I just got the freemax and have been using the 0.5 coil head well I was wanting to give the .2 a try and didn't know if I should just set the .
0.5 one away...i did that with my subtank coils and it seemed like if I threw it back in it would give me a dry hit bad luck not sure. but didn't want to waste it If it's not necessary so I'm wondering if I'll be okay.  

Hey guys I'm looking to upgrade from what I have right now which is the atlantis v1. I'm not a huge fan of the atlantis because of the inconsistency with the coils and the loss of flavor after 2 tank full. The atlantis v2 seems nicer with the occ coils and improved airflow, but I'm not sure if its worth the upgrade since I could just get the new 5-pack occ coils for my v1. The subtank mini still has better options with the occ coils and RBA. Also it seems the occ coils for the subtank is easier to rewick which could save me a few dollars.
I'm not sure which one to go with. I'm leaning more toward the subtank, but still not sure. Maybe someone who has either one or knows more about them could help me. I like to have a good amount of clouds while still keeping the flavor.

Or if anyone has a sub-ohm tank they could recommend that they like more than the ones I mentioned that would be good too.

I use an ipv2

Thanks