High Wattage High Ohms

I just got my first drippers in the mail today Doge competition and vertex v2 and I built a 1ohm micro using 28 gauge and a 0.3 ohm at 24gauge and at 50 watts(max for my mod) I find the 1.0 ohm build is way more satisfying. This is not a subohm bashing thread I loves them clouds but I have to say the performance of the 1 ohm coil is waay better... Am I just crazy or is there really no other reason to use sub ohm coils other than a mech mod or trying to get max wattage out of a 100+ watt device?  


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Vaping Quesitons

Ok I'm hoping I don't get heat for these questions/statements but educating ones self especially with something that is still very new is important to me.

1. Read some articles on how there is second hand vape similar to cigarettes (99% better mind you) what are your thoughts? Vaping may not be as safe as smokers think, research suggests | Society | The Guardian

2. Formaldehyde found in builds running at high watts/voltage? But 0% at low/normal builds, what i can't seem to find is whats considered to high for a Mechanical Mod or even for a V/W, V/V Setup? My normal build for a mech mod is twisted single coil 24 gauge 6-7 wraps, usually gets about 0.28 ohms and single coil 8 wraps of 24 gauge puts out 0.73 ohms on my flavor builds.
Before You Vape: High levels of Formaldehyde Hidden in E-Cigs - NBC News  

Coil Ohms And Wattage Solution

Hello Been vaping about 2 years now
My setups are Vaporshark Rdna 30 Istick 30 watt and a provari 2.5 and a IPv mini v2 30 watt
So like many others I have been juggling with wattage I currently Use A couple of kanger subtank minis using the RBA and a kayfun v4 I've been all over the place building ohms but have settled on 1.2 - 1.4 ohms BTW I'm not into sub ohms
So after many months of different ohms and watts with the help of steam engine I have found I like my vape at a heat flux of around 175 so to get to this and I can't believe how simple it was I just take the ohms I am using such as 1.2 @ 12 watts = 178 heat flux 1.3 @ 13 watts = 178 heat flux and so on I can't believe it became that simple
So I suppose all it takes is to find what heat flux you enjoy and adjust from there
I never bought that what I have read thru the last 2 years that 14 watts is 14 watts no matter what ohms you use it seems to me there had to be more factors involved
Just my thoughts


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Any Sugestions Please

hi all
I have a mvp 3 and I use iclear 30 tanks 1.9 to 2.1 ohms
im vapeing at 12 watts 5.1 volts and have been for a few weeks now
everything was fine until today right now in fact hence the reason for this question
I refilled my tank and screwed it back on my mvp when I pressed the button to vape
it reads the ohms and volts and wattage the wattage was as normal 12 watts
the volts were 7.1 and the ohms were 6.0 totally unvapable and burnt tasting
(I should also point out that the volts and watts are locked in on the mvp)
I have also tried the tanks on other devices and still the same issue
which leads me to believe its the tanks at fault and not the device
I have been vapeing long enough to understand the reasons for burnt taste
and the causes and solutions to rectify it but I have never had this happen before
I tried other tanks and the same has happened except for one which works fine
does anyone have any idea whats going on
thanks
steve  

Diy Salt Juices And Diy Coils

So I've got a bit of a convoluted question. I've been vaping for about 8 years and followed most of the trends. Spent a fair amount of time in deep subohm territory with freebase juice, low nic levels, lots of thick flavorful clouds. Over the last two years I've gravitated towards the salt juices with the tiny mods and PIP coils. The cost of replacement coils is getting annoying when combined with the cost of salt nicotine juices in comparison to the freebase bottles I used to buy. To address this I've tried building my own high ohm coils on the SMOK Rpm rebuildable head. Results have been less than satisfactory.

For what ever reason, even when I can block the airflow and build a high ohm coil..the flavors in salt nicotine always taste awful, nothing like what they taste like in the rpm 1.0 coil. As near as I can tell, the only reason I can think of is the different style of wicks..inner cool wick for a DIY vrs outer wick for the smok prebuilts.

This got me thinking of building a juice that's a bit heavier and smoother with a higher vg content and flavor content to work in a DIY coil (prob something simple like a single 26-28 gauge spaced wrap) but still pack some of the nic punch (sans throat hit) as a salt based juice..and will still work in a pod device. I'm thinking it would probably need to be in the 12-15mg nic range to get a similar buzz as the 25-35mg nice I usually vape at low power.

Is this even feasible..or are the flavors and thickness of the old style free base juices incompatible with salt based nicotine? A 40pg/60vg juice with a 12-15mg salt nic level that will work on a .8 single coil at 10-15 watts or so I think. And not taste awful.

In my state it's becoming problematic to source flavors other then basic tobacco.. so it might be time to go strictly DIY with a pod type device.

Thoughts?  

Low Wattage Vs High Wattage

Don’t you feel low wattage pod system flavour is weak as compare to tank/pod-mod high wattage Vape flavour  

Vaping Above 200w Help

so in my pursuit of vaping above 200 Watts I made a fuse 3x24ga gauge wrapped with 36 gauge and I tried three coils. it came out .07 I Vaped it at about 375 watts it was a hot vape but the ohms were very low so I had a problem with power my DNA 250c was reporting 65 amp output so I took that and put in dual fuse 22ga gauge wrapped with 36 gauge I ran that build triple coil I used it at about 250 Watts. what I am trying to do is vape at about 300 to 400 watts with an ohm or .2 to .3. the inner diameter will be 5.5 or 5 mm I'll be using the kanthal core wrapped with 36 gauge and ni80.I'm trying to figure out what my next bill should be to try to vape above 300 watts the restrictions I have is it can't be below point 1 ohm or above .3 ohm I have two aromamizer plus has with the series deck The parallel deck a second parallel deck and a single coil deck. The single coil deck fit 6.36 mm.

I also have the aromamizer titan.

What gauge would you Clapton?

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Rebuilding Kanger Heads , Help Please

I just Started rebuilding my kanger dual coils and im having a issue , seems like when i build them and check my ohms on my meter they are right where i want them but when i put them in my tank and fire them up the ohms fluxuate like crazy from low to high ohms, any idea why it happens ? It occurs even when i build single coils. Anyway to fix this? Thanks  

Another Variable Sweet Spot Thread

I'm finding a 1.3 ohm coil to be to low for me. On my Provari, between 2.9 and 3.5 volts are OK. I haven't used this tank on either of my other two variable wattage regs, but I'd think it to be in the 6 - 7 watt range. It's time to re-wick the other tank or quit typing and do it already. I think I'd go for the former, but then I'd have to think about that. The other tank's coil I wrapped to about 1.7 ohms. My mech and me would be ever so gladder if that tank was fully operational again.  

Higher Wattages (50+ Watts) Useless On Voopoo Drag X Plus?

I've been using only twin-18650 mods for some time, and before the shipping ban came into effect, I bought a backup of my most-used mod (a Geekvape Aegis X), but since the 100W single 21700 / 18650 Voopoo Drag X Plus was only $35, I also picked up one of them as another backup.

I vape exclusively on RDA's, typically with a 3mm dual coil twisted build with 24 or 26 gauge Kanthal or nichrome-80. 5 or 6 wraps with 24 gauge, 6-8 wraps with 26 gauge. I typically vape these between 90 and 110 watts.

I did not expect to get a 'true' 90-100 watts out of the Drag X, so I set a target of around 60 watts. I mounted a 3mm dual coil twisted 28 gauge build with 6 wraps, which on my Aegis X vapes great at 60 watts, and very good at 50 watts. It measures at 0.45 ohms.

But on the Drag at 60 watts, it only vapes at what feels like 30 watts on my Aegis. Setting it higher makes no difference either, it seems to 'top out' at ~30 watts regardless of the setting. 60 watts @ 0.45 ohms is only around 11 amps, so I doubt I'm hitting an amperage limit.

I am using 18650 batteries (VTC5A), and it is about time to replace them, as I am only getting around 70% the battery life as I did when new. I will be picking up some 21700 batteries at the same time, which hopefully help with things on the Voopoo.

Does anybody have any good experiences with ~60 watt builds on a Drag X Plus?  

Still Cool To Not Sub-ohm?

Whenever i go out for a drink on the town with the lady, I'll see vapsters here and there with their sub-ohm setups. And here i am with my Nautilus Mini and whatever low-wattage mod I decided to pair it with.

Honestly, each day I seem to enjoy using these low wattage devices, such as the VV4 and a Nautilus Mini, more and more as opposed to my sub-ohm gear.

With my Nautilus, the flavor and throat hit is always spot on, and the vapor is nice too for what it is. I seem to be using this setup more and more lately... And when subbing, it's rare for me to get that satisfying hit, i just find myself vaping more and more to feel satisfied thus burn through a ton of juice. With a Nautilus, I get that satisfying hit right away and vape here and there.

With my sub-ohm gear, juices can be a hit or miss at times in terms of flavor and hit. But i can always count on my Nautilus Mini to give me exactly what I want each and every time.

I even bought a MVP20 at a killer price to perfectly compliment the Nautilus Mini. I wouldnt be burning through nearly as much juice, thus saving me money in the long run.

It's nice to blow crazy big clouds in public, but im starting to fall back on mimicking a standard cigarette with vaping rather than chase clouds.

Am i crazy for shying away from sub-ohming? Maybe it will be fun again after i take a break from it?