Making Variable Voltage Battery Powered Supply For Silver Plating Small Parts Need Help

I've always wondered whats better for efficiency. In a regulated mod I can't imagine it really makes a difference in vape performance, I'm currently keeping my builds at a lower resistance by winding parallel coils. My goto build comes to about 0.4ohms and I run it in the range of 28-38w, usually set at 32w, if I wound it in series it would be around 1.6ohm which would need about 7v to get to 30w and at my Aegis solos max voltage of 8v would provide 40w. The only issue with this is that it limits the wattage range you can run at, since I sometimes do crank this build upto 42w, although it does start to burn above 45w.

The one advantage of running at a high voltage and a lower current is that theoretically there should be less energy loss in the transmission of power to the coils (like in the pin, the posts and the wiring connecting the 510), although depending on the construction of the mod/tank it may not be significant enough to provide any benifit. I can imagine that it's not that simple either as the mod is having to boost the voltage more which may cause the voltage conversion efficiency to suffer. Although in my dual cell mod it may be benificial since the input voltage is around 6.4-8.4v, although I tend to use this for my higher wattage builds.

This may just be me because I'm obsessed about how much voltage is dropped across cables, I always use the high quality wiring and keep it as short as possible because it is actually quite surprising how much energy you can loose through a cheap cable. Even good quality wire at higher amps can drop a significant amount of power.  

I have a variable W/V battery and I prefer it on 4.2, but it is expensive and I never get the full 300 charges out of them like they claim they are supposed to get. Will decreasing the voltage by 0.4 Volts increase the battery life to a significant extent that makes it worth while?  

the little cig bats just dont last long and at the time i started was really weak but that what made me look

for an up grade and thats how i found this place and learned every thing from reading videos and what not

and im using the orchid v3 great tank and the nemesis clones and dont touch my other stuff. every ones

different and sense you have batteries now that have VV/ vw and that cost about the same as a blue start up kit
Electronic Cigarette Kits | E Cigarette Kit | Rechargeable Kits well really its alot cheaper. and a tank that has

adjustable air flow now days for 6 bucks. why would you suggest a njoy or blue ecig. thats why 90 % of us are

here because we waisted money on them and needed something stronger. with the adjustabilty of some of

these cheap but great batteries/mods and airflow tanks i cant in good faith point some one to a item that

just didnt do the trick

that is a waist of cash. pointing some one to a mod that has adjustments makes alot more sense and

increases there chances of quiting and staying quit and spend less money. some of us where not that lucky

but we started when vaping was a baby its growing fast and like computers theres a upgrade every day. so i

do not see the point it pushing some one to a blu or some random stuff like that when there are alot off really

good options out there with adjustments so the user can suite there needs. save you money in the long run.

wish you guys would think about that a little bit

it took us years to learn what we know now why make a new guy go through what we had no choice to go through

why not suggest something with adjustable airflow like the
$9.58 Authentic KangerTech GeniTank Bottom Dual Coil BDC Clearomizer - 2.4ml / 1.8ohm at FastTech - Worldwide Free Shipping

or

$21.96 Authentic Aspire Nautilus Mini BVC Clearomizer - 2.0ml / 1.8ohm at FastTech - Worldwide Free Shipping

its a great tank and super cheap adjustable air flow and easy to replace parts

and batteries like the

$25.96 Authentic Innokin iTaste VV V3.0 VV / VW 800mAh Rechargeable Battery - w/ charging cable at FastTech - Worldwide Free Shipping
Variable Voltage: voltage can be adjusted from 3.3 – 5.0 volts in .1 volt increments Variable Wattage: Wattage can be adjusted from 6.0 – 11.0 W in .5 watts increments Ohms meter: Resistive Load Detection Puff Counter: The puff counter will record how many puffs you have taken. The records will be cleared when the device is turned off Short Circuit/Atomizer Protection: Helps protect the iTaste VV against faulty atomizers Over-Discharge Protection: The iTaste VV monitors the battery voltage and will automatically turn off when the battery is discharged LED Battery Indicator: The iTaste VV battery utilizes an advanced capacity display via green, yellow and red LED lights. Users will know the battery’s capacity via the color of the LED Button The LED lights will show green, yellow or red to indicate full battery life, half capacity or charging needed Superior Battery Life: The iTaste VV e-cigarette features a built-in 800 mAh polymer Li-Ion rechargeable battery 510 Threaded: The iTaste VV is threaded to accept 510 accessories, including the iClear10,iClear16 and iClear30 clearomizers ON/OFF Battery Switch: Quickly clicking three times will power the device on or off. Once the device is on, holding down the button will activate the battery. This safety feature prevents the atomizer from turning on while it's in your pocket or bag, as well as inadvertent settings changes 10-Second Cutoff: If the button is held down for 10 seconds or longer, the iTaste VV will shut itself off until the button is released Passthrough: The iTaste VV is charged through a Micro USB Port. You can recharge it with any standard MicroUSB cable. It can also work as a pass-through device for simultaneous vaping and charging Settings Retention: The device remembers the last voltage or wattage used when switching batteries Display Information: The bright display shows resistance (ohms), voltage, wattage, atomizer voltage output, puff count, and last-used settings
or

$25.36 Authentic Innokin iTaste CLK 1280 VV 1280mAh Rechargeable Battery - w/ charging cable / brass + stainless steel at FastTech - Worldwide Free Shipping

Variable voltage: The rotational wheel adjusts voltage in the increamens (3.5V, 3.8V, 4.0V, 4.3V, 4.5V, 4.8V, 5.0V) To set your desired voltage turn the rotational wheel to the left or right until you hear an audible click Press quickly 5 times to turn ON/OFF The battery capacity is displayed via green, yellow and red LED lights Green = fully charged Yellow = half charged Red = low power (please charge) 10s cut off protection Short circuit/atomizer protection Over-discharge protection Low voltage warning (lower than 3.3V, red LED blinking for eight seconds and then automatically power off) Compatible with eGo/510 connection With micro-USB charging port Standby current: 50uA max Maximum output current: 3.5A Maximum output wattage: 15W Clearomizer resistance: 1.2ohm (minimum), recommendation 2.5ohm Short circuit protection: 0.6 +/- 0.2ohm something in that sense that can run a dual coil tank like the kangertech at 1.2-2.4 ohms easy

vs something like a spinner that was really made for single coils at the time

and pointing them to new items that havent had the test of time like some of these mods do. seems like people are using them like ginne pigs to see how it works. thats not right

should be pointing them to items that have proven there selfs so they dont have to go through what we had to when we started.  

So why don't some of us old-timers reminisce a little bit about how it used to be....

--I remember when new members would be struggling constantly trying to find the path to a satisfying vape
--I remember when the 510 came on the scene, with a somewhat lower resistance atomizer, and new vapers started having increased success
--I remember when 510 cartridge mods were all the rage, as folks kept trying to find a good way to continue getting those consistently good vapes
--I remember when the KR808D came on the scene, and cartomizers started pushing new vaper success rates even higher
--I remember the ensuing 510 vs KR808D wars
--I remember the Boge Cartomizers for the 510 models that may well have turned the tide towards 510 models
--I remember when low-resistance (LR) atomizers came on the scene and the ability to vary your "power" became a reality
--I remember the FDA court case, and the formation of CASAA from members on this very forum
--I remember when CASAA started working closely with long-time harm-reduction advocates, thus giving long-time THR advocates new life and consumer backing
--I remember when the Chuck came out with custom graphics
--I remember the Chuck vs Silver Bullet wars
--I remember when the Reo Mods came out, and took dripping to a whole new level
--I remember when Egos came out and new vaper success started to skyrocket
--I remember the Buzz, which if I remember correctly, started the variable voltage revolution
--I remember when the Provari came out and started the variable voltage wars
--I remember when the Nhaler came out with the Darwin and started the variable wattage vs variable voltage wars

And I look at that the New Members sub-forum these days, and find very few struggling at first vape anymore.
Success, now, is nearly guaranteed.

That's progress.



What do you all remember?  

Hello everyone. I have a problem. I'm gonna need some help to get through this, I may not even make it. Who knows?

I'm addicted. Not the good kind. The kind that costs money... The kind that makes my long hours at work perish with the swipe of my debit card... I'm addicted to.. Upgrading.

So I'm in need some some help from the best of the best with you guys. I'm looking to upgrade! I'm currently looking into going from my istick50w and Subtank Mini, to a mech mod and rda. I'm gonna start my way with single coil builds, and go up to dual. I am thinking I have about $100 I want to work with, so can someone make some recommendations?!

I already have some cotton and kanthal from my rba with the subtank. I'm just looking for a good starter mech and battery set up, with a pretty decent rda. Now, since this is my first, I'm not biased at all against clones. I welcome them! As long as they are decent quality and get the job done, so be it!

But here's one catch: I don't really like shiny stuff, oddly enough. I mean brass, or really shiny silver. I don't like scratches that stuff seem to get in my pocket. I love stuff to look perfect all the time!

So any help or recommendations are greatly appreciated! I have no idea about batteries or their chargers, but I'm more than willing to educate myself.  

"Cheap is small and not to steep, but best of all, cheap is cheap...
I'm on a low budget!
I'm on a low budget!
I'm not cheap, you'll understand;
I'm just a cut-price person in low-budget land"
--Ray Davies, "Low Budget"--

A few months ago, I got back into vaping after a two year absence. I figured that I wouldn't really need to buy much more gear than what I already had from 2014-2017.

Well, a lot that old gear still works and I use much of it frequently. I was using it, doing just fine, when I decided to get a new high power mod to replace the ailing eVic-VT, whose built-in battery is dying a slow and agonizing death. Can't run subohm coils on a Provari.

So I decided to buy a mod...

I'm good at finding closeouts, liquidations, etc. It's one of the ways I keep costs low for my guitar business. Much of which comes from China. With vaping, we have a whole industry located almost entirely in China. Most of the major manufacturers seem to introduce new gear and discontinue "old" gear on an almost weekly basis.

"Who still wants that old piece of junk mod we were making last month with a measly 95 watt output. Now, for just $5 more, you can have the new totally badass mod that looks almost the same as the old one, but in new colors and...get this...105 watt output!"

So for low power me, there was all kinds of cool stuff. I don't care about TC, 'cause I vape too cool for it to work. Just give me variable wattage or even VV. Last month's model is OK.

So I'm finding all sorts of cool stuff, and started seeing a lot of good stuff for under $50. A lot of good stuff under $35. Some really cool stuff for under $25...so of course I can buy that mod. Doesn't cost half as much as that carton of cigarettes that I didn't buy this week.

So here's a cool starter kit (mod with tank) for under $25. About half of the list price that nobody paid in the first place:


The Sigelei Sobra is a cool looking, long lasting, 200W monster. I love the Moonshot tank it came with. I added the heat sink all by myself. But it has a fatal flaw for tootle-puffing me. Minimum output is 10W! I frequently vape at 7W, so this setup just won't work for me all of the time.

So I really needed to get another mod, this time a high ouput device with a minimum output of no more than 5W...

I can't deny it--I quickly developed a bad case of low budget shinyitis. Not too hard to click on "Buy" when it's so cheap--such a good deal--and what's another $25, anyway? If it's less than $15, I swear, sometimes the "Add To Cart" button clicks itself.

Here's a bunch of low budget gear that looks cool, works well, and none of it cost more than $35. I also bought all of it in the last 3 months:
Low budget shinyitis is a common affliction. Some folks collect different pod systems in all of the available colors. Some folks just can't resist a good $20 RTA. Some people start collecting mech clones...
HCigar "Turtle Ship" clone with a custom built Subtank. Good quality, really. The only thing that gives it away as a clone is the engraving, which was left rough. Of course, I sanded and polished it, and now it's much smoother.

So low budget shinyitis is real, it's dangerous (to your wallet), and is perhaps a far more widespread affliction than previously thought. Now somebody please show off your low budget (under $50) shinies, so I know I'm not alone!  

Hello vapers! first! I'm a noob at this stuff because I just buy my tank and use it with the coils it comes with and second, my english isnt that good but I can understand it perfectly fine.

Anyway, Ive been searching everywhere but I couldnt find a solid answer to my question.
Im using an Aerotank Giant right now with a 1.8 ohm coil, if I put a 1.2 ohm I would have to use less voltage because I get a burnt taste and the coil burns pretty quick, Im about to order a Sub ohm tank soon and I'll use the stock coils, the one im getting is the Kangertech SubOhm tank.
Why do subohm coils use more voltage when normal coils use less?

I mean, Ive seen people do things like 0.2 ohm coil @ 100W + If I did anything over 3.5V on my 1.2 ohm coil itd burn instantly... SubOhm takes more voltage the lower you go and normal dual coils take less voltage the lower you go!

1.9 Ohm Dual coil = 3.7-3.8V for me
0.5 ohm OOC subtank sub ohm coil = 12-30W?!

Thanks in advance for taking the time to reply to this post and your patience!

Cheers!

Edit: by the way, Im planning to use my subtank with a 50/50 PG/VG 16mg nicotine, Is that ok?  

I have a battery that is capable of going up to 6.0 V but the chart that came with the battery did not have 1.6 Ohm listed on the chart, it skipped from 1.5 Ohm to 1.8 Ohm.
I just need to know what the max amount of volts that I can use with this coil without reducing it's life expectancy to much.

- Also is there any reason to prefer variable wattage mode over variable voltage? because I always use V/V mode never even tried V/W.  

Hello Guys,
I noticed that there are a lot of people who are used to charge electric equipment in Inappropriate ways.

Don't know how many vapers use the charging cable to connect your e-cig device or charger first and then plug the adaptor to the power supply end.
Taking phones as example, if you firstly connect your phone and then plug your adaptor in the socket, there will be a huge voltage assault to the phones which is bad for the life and performance of your phones. Otherwise is the adaptor you are using is DC adaptor, by connect the adaptor to socket first, the high AC volatle can be converted to low safe voltage such as 5V, 12V, in this way, the assault to your devices will be reduced in a large degree.

This is all the same for charging e-cigs, and batteries.
 

Me and a fellow co worker ( also enjoys vaping ) Got in an intelectual topic the other day of the basic structure and run down of what it truly is. It seems to be a basic setup and function. But then we start thinking what kind of electrical system it truly needs and what the build is. With wattage voltage and resistance a key factor we were wondering is there a set amperage/ voltage rating that they will need. We researched into different electrical diagrams and the setup and wiring seems pretty straight forward, but I am not capable of finding and actual set points.

This is the kind of thing electrical junkies speak of on an overnight shift! Any tidbits, links, or knowledge you guys can share upon me would be great!