Still Using Screws For Your Box Mod?

I recently bought the Forge v2 by MCV Philippines and really love it. It's the copper version and looks great on my Kingpin. I also bought the MCV Philippines Elite drip tip to go on it. It's actually 2 tips in one(a copper and brass that can be stacked). Anyway, it won't fit on my Forge 2 because the post screws are too tall. The tip is a wide bore, and the 510 adapter that came with the RDA is shorter and doesn't make contact with the screws.

When I take the PH screws out, the Elite drip tip fits fine. I figured I would just add some of my extra Allen Hex grub screws(which I put on all my RDAs if possible), but the screws in the MCV Philippines RDAs are one size smaller than most RDA post screws. I believe they are size 3 (#46 / 3-56). I'm guessing they are Fine coarse.

Does anyone know a site that sells screws like this? I've tried searching Google, but didn't really find anything relevant.


Thanks  

Hi All, Can anyone help me with finding the size of the deck screws for mounting the coil? I want to replace them with grub screws but have no idea what size to purchase. Any help would be appreciated.

Thanks  

hey guys. i have an ipv3. a couple days ago i asked my friend to screw the back plate on while i was busy doing something else. he somehow managed to tighten the screws so much that the areas of there back plate around the screws got pushed in and now there are small gaps between the back plate and the rest of the device. i tried countless times to straighten the areas out but nothing is working. does anyone know where/how or if its even possible to purchase just a new back plate?  

I got an authentic yep RDA off rbavaporstore.com. The screws that go into the posts are so long that, with 24 gauge in the post, the screw won't start to screw into place. I got 28ga to fit and I can screw them down but 24 gauge doesn't work. Is there anything I can do to change this?

I was thinking I could sand the screws down or maybe drill the post holes bigger so that the kanthol has more room to be tightened down with the screws

Thanks for any help  

HI
Those 2 mods crapped out on me, most likely broken connection of some kind, as both can not read attached tank.
Planning to pull apart and do my best to find the issue, but I realized that SMOK is uses HEX type screws and I need those screwdrivers.
I wonder if someone here knows something about those sizes, as they are very small - I tried my professional Dewalt bits, but they are too big, so I need tiny ones.

Any ideas appreciated.  

Has anyone tried to sand down their screws that screw into their RDA posts?
If I sand mine down, do you think i will be able to still screw it in or will the threads be messed up  

So I finally got around to putting a coil on the rba deck...my typical kayfun build, 28 ga @ 1.3-1.4 ohms. Everything looked good, coil tight....raised off the deck...screwed into the ohm meter....weirdness ensues....said 3.85 ohms...took it off, put it back on...said 4.6 ohms....looked to see if the coil screws were tight ...check. both tails tight under the screws...check. The coil deck screwed into the base...yep. No moisture in the base, nope. Put it on the ipv...said 7.7 ohms, then 4.2, then 3.90.............


Put the stock coils in the base, everything normal. Is there something I could be missing in the coil deck??? I got nothing else. No, I had not put the chimney on, so no short there. I may wrap another coil and see....I can only think that something is amiss in that little coil deck....or I am missing something in the build that is obvious. It's a really nice, tight looking coil too.  

Hi all, just got home from work and my new Orchid V4 was here waiting on me.
Kinda excited ok, thing is I started building coils for it using 28g wire.
Here the problem, I cant seem to loosen up the four screws on the post.
Are these normal threads or reverse threads?
Cant install new coils till I can loosen up those freaking screws lol.

Thanks, normally I never have such problems.

Jim  

Why are there endless threads about them breaking. Centerpost spinning, shoddy millwork, peeling metals, bad screws, bad threads, janky 510's, bad rubber, broken insulators. The list is endless. I think the one thing everyone agrees on is that they are CHEAP.  

Screen not turning on? Inconsistent firing? Not powering on and/or inconsistent power?

This is how I fixed mine and it may work on yours.

Disclaimer: Always attempt to contact Squid Industries warranty services first to see if they will replace it. You can find the email on their Instagram page. If that doesn't work, try what worked for me.

- Step 1: Remove batteries. Hold power button for 10 seconds.

- Step 2: Unscrew the 3 screws at the top. 2 are star-head and 1 is a very small Phillips head.

- Step 3: lightly push upwards on the fire button. If it will not come up, try reaching in the battery compartment and lightly pushing upwards with a finger or back end of a screwdriver.

- Step 4: Once the component is out, lightly separate the two halves by wiggling the pin connector out of the socket. Don't pull too hard. Don't want to rip out the wires which will stop from separating the two halves entirely.

- Step 5: Cleaning time. Dab off the majority of juice with a paper towel. Grab a soft toothbrush and a small cup with rubbing alcohol. Lightly brush the Alcohol over the visible surfaces. Wait until it dries. Repeat until it no longer seems oily after drying off (once or twice should do it).

- Step 6: Take a look at the red and black wire connected to the underside of the bit your tank/RDA screw into. Does the red wires rubber sleeve not cover either end of the wire? Can you see the metal wire? If you do, proceed to the next step.

- Step 7: See the black goop that is melted onto the underside covering the solder? Go ahead and carefully pull that off, as much as you can. Don't pull at the wire, just the black melted rubber goop that is over the solder.

- Step 8: Using your fingers or very lightly with a set of pliers or tweezers, stretch the red rubber sleeve over the exposed wire. Alternatively, if you are good with electrical tape, you can use that to cover up the exposed wire.

- Step 9: Grab an inch of electrical take and slap that over where the black goop was. Try to press it to the surface and wires as good as you can get it.

- Step 10: Make sure all the alcohol has dried and put it all back together. If you'd like, you can attempt to put a rubber band around the seam to prevent future juice from getting in (I didn't, but I thought of it afterwards).

If the juice was messing with it, it should work. If the power was shorting to ground, it should work. If it still does not work, contact Squid Industries and politely request to purchase a new chipset for $35 instead of buying a whole new vape.