How To Fix Squid Industries Double-barrel V3 Mod

Hey everyone.

I have a Squid Industries V2 white camo. Got really worn down so I decided to sand it down to make it amazing.

I want to put a golden crucifix cross on the side opposing the Squid Industries label, to make it genuinely one of a kind.

Would black seem too boring and look like the black they already supply? I was originally wanting to make it look brass, then I thought of a cross "which I don't have or know where or how' and changed my mind.

Suggestions!  

I have had a lot of mis fires on my Smokless Owl 25.00 squonker and had to press down extra hard

and sometimes side ways to get it to fire.

I just done some contact cleaning and scraping on the Smokless Owl Button.

I took my wifes Emory board finger nail file thingy and depressed the firing button and held it depressed and rubbed it

across the firing pin and then took a small jewlers screwdriver and scratched it back and forth across the end of the pin and

did the same thing to botton ground pin.

I noticed some black color on the end of the firing pin before I started this cleaning process.

I gently took the screw driver and scratched back and forth across the positive and negative end of the battery just to

take any small film or oxidation from the ends just to make a better connection.

It seems to fire now just like it should with no MISFIRES---mod is now perfect !  

What are the step ups from the ileaf? I have 2 50w's that I just received. What are the step ups? I'd be running a Nautilus and mini on them. Looking for something that is easy to charge and very reliable.

Thanks
Chris  

Just a little warning to all who have purchased the Lemo 2- Do not use the wire included in the box.
I was a little worried when i was using the stock coil and noticed it had been turning a green color after a few days of use, not sure if this is the case with all Lemo 2's, but if you notice your wire is turning greenish, just throw it out and replace it. I don't believe this is kanthal, it could possibly be nichrome, but it's properties are not matching up with those of kanthal. My worries were confirmed when I decided to put a parallel 5 wrap coil on my rda with that wire because of my lack of other 24 gauge... Well today when I took out my cotton and dry burned the coil a little to rid it of excess juice, the coil actually deformed and somewhat melted on my rda . I don't know what kind of metal this is, but I'm positive it is not kanthal, this has never happened to me with kanthal, and this wire seems to be of a lower resistance than kanthal. Anyway, just wanted to let ya'll know to be careful with that wire, or just throw it out altogether. Otherwise, the Lemo 2 is a fantastic tank  

while waiting for my juice, which should be in the mail shortly, i decided to familiarize myself a little more with my brand new and first device, a pico istick 75. i wanted to become familiar with how to select modes, temp, watts, etc. so i went to youtube and picked:



as mike was clicking through the menu, I was following along step by step. and at one point, he was demonstrating the procedure for displaying the firmware version, which i wanted to see. a few clicks later i became familiar with the smell you get when you hit the fire button on a dry tank.
glad i bought more coils,

but i got the firmware version. yea! anybody know how to do the upgrade?

i forgot to mention the most important part. the reason i mucked up is i had left the tank on. mike's was detached,  

I’m a mouth to lung vapor and currently using the holic rda and galaxies rdta. I’ve tried using ni80 round wire and superfine mtl fused Clapton ni80 wire. The round wire is so easy to work with and the superfine is harder but I’m getting the hang of it. My question is with coils that ohm out the same with each wire I get flat flavor with the round wire and the flavor definitely pops with the fused Clapton wire. Is this normal? Same juice, same wattage, same ohms and same rda and squonk.
I love working with the round wire but not worth it if I can’t get better flavor.  

So I'm a toodle puffer. My normal set-up is a Joyetech Evic Easy and a Kayfun lite with unflavored liquid. The Evic Easy has a regulated 3.3 volt mode and an unregulated mode. I run the Kayfun (original V1) at 1.5 ohms, so I'm vaping at a whopping 7 watts.

Just on a whim, since I was ordering some supplies and stuff, I decided to try one of those new-fangled subtank minis...hey, it was on sale. This is my result after 2 days.

First, the .5 ohm was out of the question, so I primed and put in the 1.2 ohm OCC coil. Well, this was just not a good fit for me. The problem is, I think, the wire guage. I bet the coil is made from 24-26 guage wire. My 3.3 volts took forever to heat that wire. I had to hold the button down for 3-5 seconds to get any sizzle at all, and just couldn't get much vapor.

So, the next step is to try the rba base. This is very kayfun-like, and I built it the same way. Inspecting it, I found a burr on one of the juice channels, but filed that off with a needle file. I built a 1.8 ohm 30ga 2mm coil that turned out to be 2.0 ohm...oh, well close enough. Wicked it with my typical cotton ball and laid the tails across the deck.

I looked at the mouthpiece. Are you kidding me, looks like a tailpipe. Swapped to a favorite drip tip, turned the airflow to the lowest setting, and started vaping.

I've gone thru 2 tanks, and it's working great. Maybe better than my kayfuns. I'm going to try rebuilding the OCC coils for backups, and will likely get a couple more rba bases. The beauty may be how easy it will be to swap out the coil.  

I am kinda a noob when it comes to prebuilt coils. I am looking for coils that feel very strong/sturdy, but I am not sure what material it is.

I had coils that said they were .25ohm and all it says is "KA1 WIRE + Ni80 wire" and they felt very sturdy/hard to pull the wraps apart etc....

I bought what I thought were a good replacement for those, but they feel flimsy and easy to pull apart the wraps. They are .36ohm, 316l stainless steel, 30gx4/36g.

So apparently the stainless steel wires are more flimsy...I cannot seem to find coils that have KA1 + Ni80 like the sturdy coils I once had. I
am trying to figure out which material/what I need to look for in order for the coils to be sturdy like the old coils.


Can someone help me out with this? Thanks in advance.  

Last night I received my vaporDNA order:
1 - Doge X by Congrevape
1 - Mutation X V3 by Indulgence
1 - EHPro Pontus V1.5 Dripping Tank Atomizer

I was so excited!! When I ripped open the box I was stunned! The EHPro was sitting right on top in this elegant black box! Quite an impressive sight!!
The Mutation X V3 looks killer too! Nice box, slick looking in the see through window! Was a little disappointed that the Drip Tip that comes with it is PLASTIC. That was a bit disappointing. But this thing looks amazing!
The Doge X - I don't even have words for this thing!! Intimidating comes to mind! The chuff tip (which is NOT removable) on this guy is MASSIVE!!!! MASSIVE (yes I said it again!)!! It almost seems too much!! But very excited to build some coils for this guy and start blowing some clouds!!

It was late last night when I finally got to sit down with them. The only one I was able to clean and get put together was the EHPro Pontus V1.5. Taking it apart was a pain in the, well, in the you know what!! The pyrex glass wouldn't come off the bottom part and every time I would twist and/or pull on it, it felt like the glass was going to Shatter (but it didn't, eventually it popped off). Unfortunately, this dripping tank does NOT come with instructions. So dis-assembly was a little time consuming, trying to figure out which portion to remove and which screws to loose. But thank you YouTube for 1 helpful video.
Anyway, built some 1.6ohm coils out of 28ga Kanthal, was shooting for 0.8ohm final resistance at my atty. Let me tell you, the screws on this thing Do NOT want to HOLD down wire. One constantly backs out and the other just Breaks the Kanthal. And I am not even screwing them down that Hard or "forceful". So after getting the wires in and screws down and wicked, I fired it up but the Atty reads 0.9ohm then JUMPS up to 1.4ohm, then down to 1.0ohm then up to 1.2ohm, then down to 0.9 then up. It won't hold steady! So I took off the top and screwed down that screw that keeps coming out, was fine for a pull or two, then started bouncing around again.
I contacted vaporDNA who I made the purchase from via email (no one seems to answer their customer service phone number) and I also contacted EHPro about it. So we'll see what happens.

VaporDNA, so far is pretty good. Shipped the items on the 12th and I got them on the 16th. So pretty fast shipping (it was FREE!). They even send a FREE bottle of juice along with any purchase! Its 60/40 (VG/PG) and they wrote that that is the Only ratio they'll send for the free juice! Which is fine by me, I don't tend to look "Gift Horses in the Mouth".

Any way, I would post pics but can't while I'm at work! Just wanted to update everybody!!


More updates to come as well, once I get my Doge X and Mutation V3 coiled and wicked!!!  

Hi,

I just tried to TC vaping - and it’s awesome!

it was harder to build the coil, took me couple of tries, but once I reached R of 1.3, everything started to work.
I used 26awg wire SS316L (that’s what they had ready in the store).
I have no dry hits - at all, it’s just perfect. It’s like having on the fly automatically adjusted curve!

I do have one small problem- 1 out of 10 mod firing - (almost) nothing happens.
is it a problem (not good chip/mod, wire, else?), or is it intended? (Coil overheated, wick is dry, else?). But that’s a small nuisance - I wait 10 seconds and wape again no problem.

what I still don’t understand - why I was always told at the stores “don’t TC vape - it’s the old way, now VW is the way to go” without any explanation.
So far I have a feeling that it was done exclusively in stores interest:
- because they know it’s harder to built, so they didn’t want to have a complaining customer “it does not work”, because the mods for tc probably cost more so it’s tougher sell, and they wanted to sell me more coils, wick, juice...

are there other reasons against TC? (Safety, medical reasons (idk - SS wire releases particles or something - seems unlikely (I know with Ti and Ni you should be causious)), else?

I continue to research this topic as well, online, YouTube, etc, but so far I found nothing against, except what I already mentioned (mainly it’s a bit harder to build the coils).

Would appreciate your opinions!

regards,
Vadim

ps. I use EHPRO Cold Steel 100 mod, Siren 2 MTL RTA.