How Strong You Inhale Vs Flavour

Hello everyone.

How strong you inhale vs Flavour... does it make a difference?

I don't think I saw a thread or anything regarding this specific subject.

There are lots of information about atomizers, airflow, building coils and wick, MTL and DTL but in my opinion this small detail makes a huge difference.

Technically speaking, the amount of air (volume) you inhale can be the same but spreaded over a different period of time. I am a hard inhaler meaning, that when I think about it, I usually tone it down and next inhales are slower, softer and a bit longer.

Speaking from my own experience with the gear I have here is my conclusion.
-Taking a less aggressive draw usually leads to more flavor and a bit less clouds.
-There is also flavor notes that can be different in both situations.

This can also explain a bit why people coming from MTL to DTL sometimes are overwhelmed by the flavour and people doing to opposite get weak flavor results... they are just pulling too hard.

Just changing the way I draw on same atomizer, same build, same liquid, same power, will give massive different results.

Vaping is a fine balance on so many little things and in the end, when finally I hit the sweet spot, it's all so satisfying.

Stay safe.  


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Inhale And Exhale Method

I recently tried some dl vaping (restricted) and I noticed the flavour was much more detailed or pronounced....on both inhale and exhale...than mtl
Then I realised it was cause when I dl I tend to inhale deeply while when I mtl I usually dont.....I just mtl like a cigarette fast puffs or slow puffs but not deep inhales...once I changed that and inhale deeper the flavour was much better in my also...also I like to exhale trying only from mouth but of I can't and some goes through nose also and that helps with flavours....but I don't like exhale from nose only cause I feel like my nose is running ewwwwww I hate that feeling....
You guys? Do u like exhale from nose only sometimes??  

Suggestions For A Less Sweet/less Intense Flavour Rda?

Hi guys,

I thought I would try out my old drop dead rda today but it’s super sweet/strong in flavour...

Are there any rda’s out there that are less strong/intense?

I am using some of jammos aliens and some vanilla custard monster e liquid...

Cheers everyone,
✌️  

Max Flavor Out Of Mtl Rta?

First off, I would like to say that I’m very new to vaping. I started off with a JUUL, then a Smok Novo 2, and eventually got sick of buying pods.

Now I have a Hellvape MD, and an Ares 2 - the first provides better flavor, but it’s still not comparable to what I was getting in my pod systems. I just recently purchased a BP Mods Pioneer, and I’m hoping that gives me better results. I’m using an Aegis Mini for a mod.

I’m trying to figure out what I’m doing wrong, because it’s really frustrating to spend all this money for worse flavor, when I was hoping it would let me save money.

I have about 40 bottles of salt nic flavors that are 50 or 35 mg, and a couple 3mg freebase I bought (120ml for $7 seemed like a steal). I would really like to get away from the salt nic, but I seem to get even worse flavor from the 3mg.

I’m using 2.5ID 28ga SS316L round wire from Master Wire Supply (I have a spool) with Puffs Organic Cotton. My coils are usually .7ohms, but I’ve tried up to 1ohm. I’ve also tried 1 ohm Vandy Vape Superfine MTL fused claptons, and experienced similar results.

I’m using the MD with the most restrictive airflow settings (3 small hole airflow disk), low (2-3) adjustable AFC setting. I have my coil as low as possible to the airflow, and I have thinned / fluffed my wicks.

I haven’t tried adjusting the airflow below the coil on the Ares 2, because the video instructions say wide open airflow below the coil is the best for flavor (I have found the opposite to be true for the MD).

Can someone provide me more insight?

Will 2mm ID coils with the same amount of wraps taste better than 2.5? Do coil ohms do anything for flavor, or does it only change how fast it heats up? Will I lose flavor if my coils hang outside the diameter of the airflow disk?
Is there a certain type of coil that would give me better flavor than regular round wire?

I use TC at 420F 20 watts


Any kind of feedback is appreciated and if I left anything out or you have questions about my set up that could help me out please ask! I’m at a loss on what to do, and it seems like no amount of research is helping  

Question,why Would People Prefer Rta Over Sub Ohm

RDA gave better flavour,but why would people prefer RTA over sub ohm.I have experience of building a RTA,but it’s very troublesome to change flavor and you need time to rebuild.Unlike sub ohm tank,you just change the coil and the percentage of leaking is so low compare to rebuilding a RTA  

Will Taking A Less Powerfull But Longer Hit Use Less Ejuice?

If I take softer but longer puffs will I consume less ejuice than I would if I take harder but shorter puffs? Also, how much of a difference does the amount of volts affect the amount of ejuice used?
I use an ego battery and have 4 air flow options, I like using 4.2V (my coil is 1.8Ohms) and the max airflow but this is not only tearing a hole in my wallet its practically making it disappear.
I only need enough volts required to vaporize the nicotine that I want (I'm not sure but I believe I'm using 46MG/10Ml nicotine ejuice, if I upgrade to higher level nicotine ejuice containers will the power and/or airflow requirements go down?
Finally, if I start using the 1.6Ohm coil (the only other coil the Nautilus is compatible with as far as I know.) will that make a difference in power consumption required to get the same effect?  

The 'better Flavour' Reviews..

I read reviews all the time on atties and tanks where the reviewer starts going on about the intense/superb/awesome flavour.

This was brought home to me by a couple of experiences i had with my home-made ADV. I love it in a Kafun but find it unvapeable in an Orchid.
Njoy AC Hedons Bite - Overwhelming melon flavour in a Kayfun - Predominantly apple flavour in a Subtank mini.

One device may well bring out certain aspects of a flavour that are more appealing and yet make other flavours taste mediocre.
To me it is over simplistic to announce that a particular device is best for flavour. In fact i believe anyone who says that should be forced to never leave a review again. Ever.
I know that wattage plays a part but to me the airflow is the biggest factor in flavour and not coil / chamber size / wick / colour of device.......

Or am i wrong ?  

My Thoughts About Sub-ohm And Latest Vv/vw Devices...

I've been debating on writing about this topic for a while now, but figured it was time since I've seen quite a bit of posting lately and frankly what I feel is a lot of confusion about the subject.

Let me start off by saying this. This is my opinion and ONLY my opinion. I am basing this on both my own experience as well as my own knowledge given my electrical engineering and information technology background. I'm also a bit of a physics (particle physics as well as general) buff and all around fairly knowledgeable guy. Does that make me an expert on e-cigs? Absolutely not... So again, it's my opinion. It will hopefully seed some food for thought at the very least, and if you downright disagree, then that's your right to have your own opinion as well.

With all that said, let's get started.

Back in the end of August I received my Cloupor T5. This isn't a debate about that device, so let's not go there. I like mine, with the new firmware upgrade. It works wonderfully for what it was designed for. It wasn't the first high power VV/VW mod I owned, but it is the one I generally gravitate towards right now, at least until I make my final decision on which 100W-150W device to buy.

Anyway, I walked into the local B&M one day and one of the guys there was checking it out. He loved the form factor, and was really talking it up seriously considering getting one until he asked how low of a build you could put on it and I mentioned that it goes down to .2 ohm, but it has a 10 amp limit. WHOA!!!!!! Immediately he started trashing it saying he couldn't believe they would "false advertise" something and say it could do 50 (at the time, 75 now) watts when really it couldn't...

No... You don't understand... You don't NEED a .2 ohm build to push high wattage... That's the whole point... The thing can output up to 9.3 volts.... At 9.3 volts that thing can push 75 watts into a 1.1 ohm coil and only push 8 1/2 amps...

"That's crap man... You can't get thick vapor on anything that's not sub-ohm dude..."

I continued to throw "clouds" that dwarfed his... Despite the fact I was running a 1.4 ohm build at 50 watts and he was running a .3 build on his mech which was pushing around the same wattage depending on his battery voltage and voltage drop.

I decided at this point it wasn't worth trying to explain... It seems to me that so many people are wrapped up in this idea that the "clouds" are all completely tied and related to the resistance of their coil(s). Like they are so dependent on one another that there is no other way to see things.

I'm not a "cloud chaser" by any means... But I do love vapor and flavor... I'm more of a flavor chaser than anything.... But in that quest it does mean producing pretty thick and large (that's what she said) clouds.

Again, this is my opinion only, but you guys and gals have GOT to get this idea out of your head that "clouds" or vapor are tied to the resistance. It's just not true.

First of all, there are a LOT of variables that DIRECTLY affect the amount of vapor that's produced, and unfortunately (or rather fortunately) resistance is NOT one of them. Indirectly yes, but not directly.

Vapor, or the production thereof, is a result of the amount of juice that can be vaporized in a given amount of time. It really is that simple. But there's a lot that goes into that.

To vaporize e-juice you must heat it to the point where it vaporizes. In our case, a heating element wrapped into a coil is used to achieve this. The surface of the coil in in contact with the juice and the energy released from the wire in the form of heat in turn heats up the e-juice and vaporizes it.

The surface of the coil? That's right... The key here is surface area... Imagine we had a way to flash heat a metal surface from room temperature to 700 degrees almost instantly. Now if we place a small drop of juice, say 2mm in diameter in the center of this surface and turn it on. That small drop is going to get vaporized almost instantly. The result will be a small puff of vapor. As you would imagine, it won't be a tremendous amount of vapor. Now imagine we rigged up a gravity fed system that would feed juice as fast as it's vaporized... Still though the surface area being used to vaporize is only 1mm in diameter. We turn it on again... What happens? Now we get a stream of vapor... But it's still a very small stream. Sure it keeps going, and overall you're going to end up getting more vapor, but you still aren't going to fill your house with it. BUT... Suppose now we instead place a drop of e-juice that's 20cm in diameter. We've just went from a surface area of 12.57mm2 to 125664mm2! That's a huge difference in surface area... Now what happens when we turn it on? We'll get a GIANT puff of smoke... That's a LOT of juice vaporizing all at one... Now imagine taking it a step further and going back to our gravity fed system, but this time it can supply enough to keep that entire 20cm circle saturated.... We turn it on again... Now we get a giant plume of vapor that's going to fill the house in seconds!

It's surface area that makes the most difference in vaporization... The more surface we have turning juice to vapor the more vapor we can produce.

But, there's still a lot more to it than that when it comes to our e-cigs. First of all, as stated above, you have to keep that juice supplied to the heat source, in this case the surface of our coil. That's where wicking comes in. If your wick isn't good enough to carry a fresh supply of juice as fast as your heat source can vaporize it, then you'll get a nasty burnt dry hit instead of a nice flavorful cloud.

Airflow must be considered. Ever come inside from working in the yard on a hot summers day, covered in sweat and then stood in front of a blowing fan? Best feeling in the world isn't it? That fan is evaporating sweat off your body and carrying away heat with it. Leaving you feeling nice and cool. In the case of our coils, much the same process is taking place. As the juice is vaporized heat is being carried off your coil. However, vapor that's carrying the heat needs to now be carried away... If it's not, then the heat will simply build up. It can't go anywhere and when that happens the amount of heat in a given area (known as the heat flux) increases which results again in a dry nasty burnt hit. Let's back up for a second. Imagine coming in from that yard work and standing in front of the fan, except this time you wrapped up in 5 giant wool blankets first. Not exactly that same wonderful experience is it? You're not getting air flow over your body any more, so the heat is retained. The same happens with our coils.

Now let's talk about heat flux for a moment. Heat flux is the amount of heat being released in a given area. Previously I gave this example. If you take a 5000 watt portable cube heater and place it in the middle of a giant 100' x 100' pole building in the middle of winter, what effect is it going to have? Very very little. It won't warm that building as more heat is escaping than being generated over time and there's such a giant area inside that building that the very small output is going to do nothing. On the other hand, take that same 5000 watt heater and place it inside a 4' x 4' shipping crate and sit inside there with it. Quite a difference huh? It's going to burn you up in no time. You're running the exact same wattage so what gives? That's where heat flux comes in... In your pole building the heat flux was VERY VERY small... On the other hand, in that shipping crate the heat flux was extreme!!!

Our coils and atomizers have heat flux to worry about too. Because the juice vaporizes at a given temperature. Somewhere around 400-500 degrees if I recall. Anything less than that and it won't vaporize... But... There's an important consideration to think about...

How hot is a pot of boiling water? 212 degrees right? But wait... I set my stove on Hi, and the specifications clearly state that should be 500 degrees.... So no, my pot of water is 500 degrees... Um no... Your pot of boiling water is 212 degrees no matter what. Why? Because of what we talking about earlier... As the water boils, the steam carries away heat. It will NEVER reach a temperature above 212 degrees... The more heat you APPLY via the burner, the faster it will boil... The more steam (and therefore heat) is released....

Juice on a coil works exactly the same way. The more heat flux you have, the faster the juice is vaporized and the more that heat is carried away. However there is a big difference between our coils and a pot of water. The water has a large supply. Our coil doesn't. It relies on it being fed via our wick. This is where heat flux and wick come into play. The hotter the heat flux, the more efficient our wick needs to be, otherwise it can't supply enough juice to keep the surface wet. In that cause the heat builds even more and soon you have burning wick, coil, etc.

Airflow is important because without it our heat flux rises, which means our wick has to be even more efficient. No matter how good your wick material is, it can only wick so fast.

Whew......

Got all that so far? Hopefully you have a better understanding of the processes that go on in these remarkable little devices. Let's move on shall we? Let's get to the core of this post, and why you've had to be inundated with all that information.

In the beginning there were mods. Mods were flashlights or just about anything else you can imagine that could be used to power an atomizer. The existing batteries at the time had very small capacities. So with these other devices being utilized it was quickly realized that much larger batteries with higher capacities could be used. Thus "mods" were born.

A mod is really just that... What we these days refer to as a "mechanical mod". A battery and some sort of switch mechanism. This means a FIXED voltage. Now the thing is, with a fixed voltage if I want to produce more watts, and therefore heat, I only have one other variable I can adjust... Resistance.

Soon it was realized that the lower the resistance of the coil, the more wattage was produced, and therefore more heat was released... Meaning a higher heat flux and more juice getting vaporized.

Sub-ohm was born.... As batteries improved and could handle higher and higher currents, lower and lower resistances could be utilized.

This all culminated into the idea that seems to be ingrained in so many's heads to this very day... The lower the resistance, the more vapor I produce. And in the case of a mechanical mod, that's exactly correct.

Early VV and VW devices couldn't handle very much current and/or wattage. So this still held true. If you wanted large clouds of creamy tasty vapor, you needed a mechanical mod with a sub-ohm build.

But more recently there has been a slew of high power regulated mods coming out.

I've recently seen some posts referring to some of the newer regulated devices. Talk of how "stupid" people are going to feel when they get their hands on these things and realize they can't go down to a ridiculously low voltage, or the amp limitations prevent them from running coils of .1 or .2 ohm at full power. Every time I see one of these posts, one half of me laughs and the other half just shakes his head. These people who make such comments just truly don't understand what these devices are all about.

These devices aren't about trying to run a ridiculously low resistance build... They have voltage to spare... They can pump out way more than the 4.2 volts a mech mod is capable of. What does that mean? Well.... Let's remember the above...

It's all about heat flux and surface area... But we know we can "exceed" a certain point where our wicking material just can't keep up with our heat flux. In that case at best we aren't generating vapor as fast as we could, and worst case we get a nasty dry burnt hit full of our burnt wicking material.

Why does that relate? Because in general the lower resistance our build, the less surface area we have. Now, we can work around that, by using a thicker gauge wire. A 24awg build is going to have a lot more coils than a 30awg build given the same resistance..... BUT... what we also have is a lot more metal... Meaning it takes longer to heat up, and also longer to cool down.

Mention a "2 ohm build" to a "cloud chaser" and he'll laugh at you... Because in his mind he imagines this clearomizer type build running a few watts producing almost no vapor at all... That's because in his mind when you talk about a 2 ohm build he's thinking about supplying it with a maximum of 4.2 volts... Which means almost 9 watts...

But suppose you took that same 2 ohm build and ran 9 volts into it? All of a sudden you're kicking out 40 watts of power. And spreading that 40 watts out over a large surface area...

Starting to get the picture?

Let's say we build a .4 ohm build with dual 24awg coils... That's 11 wraps on each coil with a 2mm inner diameter... That's 44 watts on a freshly charged battery with a drop to 27 watts by the time the battery reaches 3.3 volts. (This is NOT accounting for voltage drop in the mod itself) But at 44 watts that's a heat flux of 243mW/mm2.

There are two problems with this build... First, it's going to take a VERY long time to heat up... From the time the switch is thrown till it's ready to vape is going to be a while. That's a lot of metal for 4.2 volts to handle... Likewise, once the switch is thrown back off, it's going to continue to cook juice for a while... It's going to take a good bit for it to cool back down... Which means a lot of excess wasted juice and longer run times meaning lowering of battery life. Second, it's not consistent. Every hit drains the battery and results in a lower voltage. The more hits, the lower the voltage. That means not only is it taking even LONGER to heat up, which means even more battery drain, but not as many watts are going into the coil, so less vapor is being produced with each hit.

Too many times people who build for mech mods try to build the same way for regulated mods. They are different animals. They aren't designed to run the same sorts of builds. It's my belief this is where so much confusion comes in.

But let's say instead we build for a regulated mod. Like the T5 for instance. Now in this case let's say we build a 1.8 ohm build with dual 29awg coils... That's a whooping 19 wraps on each coil at 2mm inner diameter... Now we can run this setup at 8.9 volts to get the same 44 watts we were kicking on a fully charged battery with our mech's .4 build. But what's the difference?

Well... LOTS of difference.... First, since we're using a regulated device that voltage is going to stay at 8.9 volts for the entire ride... From first hit to last it's going to perform exactly the same way... As the battery voltage drops, the boost circuit in the DC to DC will simply draw more current from the battery and "Trade" it for the voltage it needs...

Second, we have less than HALF the heat capacity in the wire... In other words, the lag time from when it's fired to when it's fully heated, and vice versa, when it's stopped and cools down is WAY less than the 24awg build... Because we have less mass to heat and cool.

Third, we have MUCHO surface area... Remember how we learned how important surface area is to vapor production? Well now we've got tons of it... almost 40 wraps worth!

And as for heat flux? We actually have an even higher heat flux on this build at 307mW/mm2... So that larger surface area is being delivered more heat within it than our mech build. As long as our airflow and wick can keep up, we're going to be producing large amounts of vapor...

Starting to see the light? Look, I'm not trashing mech mods here... I have some and use them myself... They are simplistic and small and can give a darn good vape with the right setup... Instead what I'm saying is, the newer regulated devices are being "compared" to these mech's by mech users, and often times being trashed because they can't do .0000001 ohm builds... (some exaggeration inserted.) But these folks just don't realize that that is NOT what they are intended to do. Many of them I don't think even realize WHY they build the sub-ohm builds the run... They don't understand that it's to overcome the limitations their mech mod presents them, and instead think that somehow there's this magical formula that says the lower resistance you can build the better the vape... and that's just bull...

With higher voltages you can build higher resistance builds with much more surface area and good heat flux to produce massive amounts of vapor with absolute consistency. And that my friends is exactly where these high voltage regulated mods shine.

I'll climb off my soap box now....


TL/DR: The delayed choice quantum eraser experiment is super cool!!!  

I Am Back On Vaping

Two weeks ago I was rewicking my rta because I wanted a change of flavour and was changing flavour every 2 days as I am using only one mod.Anyway,I am always frustrated when I wicked badly,meaning it leaked or the vape quality is not up to my usual standard.I had wicked this specific rta for hundreds over time the past 3 month as it is my first rta.I learned to wick properly after almost 30 trial...that day after I wicked,it leaked when I am about to go out to play sports with my friends.I thought my wicking had no problem before I leaves but I find that it leaked all over my bag,and I was in a very bad mood because of that...that prompted my gf to asked me to quit and I promised her that I will do it.The next day I passed all my mod to her and started to used nicotine gum,I don’t planned to quit nicotine as I find it really benefits my mental health and make me focus on work better.While using nicotine gum,I started to use lesser and lesser and then wanted completely off it as it was so boring even though I got my nicotine fix well.Yesterday I couldn’t take it anymore,somehow I convinced my gf to return my vape and promised her I will quit in the future if we got married or had babies.

In the meantime,I also ordered a new mod and now a sub ohm tank so that I don’t need to wick everytime I change flavour as I will be switching different coils on different flavour.I am excited, and hoped that this mod and tank will be able to keep me satisfied.I am addicted to vaping,not smoking and to me personally,vaping is harder to quit simply because I enjoy vaping a lot more then smoking.I love vaping,I am also worried if I had to quit someday...  

Longevity Issues With Kanger Dualcoils.

I've had the same exact set up for about a year and a half now. Itaste VTR + Aerotank with 1.5 ohm coils, and i vape at 9.0 watts. I tend to only vape one specific brand/flavor, I'm one of those weird people that just like one thing and stick with it. Up until July last year, i used a local vape shop's liquid. I liked it and it was fantastic. I'm a little fuzzy on their ratio, but I believe it was 70/30 pg/vg. Their liquid would never pool under the coil and my coils would last for over 5 weeks at a time. Then i moved. The cost of their liquid plus shipping was just too high, i was already paying 22 bucks for a 30 ml plus shipping on top of it was just killing my wallet. I found a couple other sources of liquid, one on the net being Apollo ecigs, and the other being local B&M selling VGOD liquid. Both of those i believe are 70/30 vg/pg.

Now since the switch to either of those 2 liquids, my coils are only lasting 5 days tops, and at nearly 2 dollars a pop, its killing my wallet even more than with the liquid i was having shipped here from that local store in FL. What is going on? Is that ratio of VG/PG killing my coils? Its not so much that the coils are burning out, but i just keep having to take a harder and harder draw as the days go on. When its a fresh coil, i get tons of flavor and good vapor, but towards day 4-5, flavor minimizes and vapor decreases. I've soaked them in distilled water and let them dry out, but even that the flavor/vapor tends to peter out after a day or so.

Thoughts?  

Tried Sub-ohming And Maybe It's Not For Me. Interested In Your Thoughts.

My main go-to setups these days are Nautilus tanks (both sizes) with 1.8ohm BVC's on mini boxes like Eleaf iStick and Heatvape Defender, but since I got the Defender and it can go down to 0.5ohm with it's 25 watts I decided to give it a go.

So I recently purchased a 22mm Peakomizer 2 Mega tank with Aspire Atlantis 0.5ohm coil and just recently tried it out around 25 watts with my favorite 70/30 vanilla flavor juice.

Now maybe this is partly to do with the tank I bought but even on the tightest airflow setting I feel like it's just too much. It seems to kind of force me to do deep straight-to-lung hits and I'm just not into the experience. I like mouth-to-lung hits focused on flavor more than anything else and I don't typically inhale too deep, for more of a smooth creamy vape. But this experience was more like harsher throaty big airy inhale and I didn't dig it.

After literally just 30 minutes of checking it out I went right back to my Nautty's with 1.8 ohm BVC's between 7.5 to 10 watts and that's a happy place for me, so I'm probably going to sell the barely touched Peakomizer 2 tank and brand new Atlantis .5 coils (looking forward to getting access to Classifieds section here soon).

But still I'm interested in other vaper's thoughts on this. I'm curious to know if sub-ohming is mainly geared toward heavy lung hits and the airy experience I had or if there are ways to do it / certain gear to use so that it's a similar experience to what I'm used to.

As always, I'm just really curious to read the opinions and experiences of others. It helps me learn something new every day!