Negitive Post Spin Safty

So I purchased a piece of garbage 25mm Kennedy one from Fastech. I spent practically nothing on it so I'm not too upset.

My question is: the negitive post is already spinning. I can just use a pair of pliers to hold the pin in place while I screw down the post. But is a spinning negitive post safe to use?  


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Problem: Yep Rda Negative Post Milled Badly

I got an authentic yep RDA off rbavaporstore.com. The screws that go into the posts are so long that, with 24 gauge in the post, the screw won't start to screw into place. I got 28ga to fit and I can screw them down but 24 gauge doesn't work. Is there anything I can do to change this?

I was thinking I could sand the screws down or maybe drill the post holes bigger so that the kanthol has more room to be tightened down with the screws

Thanks for any help  

Gluing Glass To Metal. First Gen Kanger Protank.

I figured this would be the Second best place to put this question but the other forum doesn't produce any replies. So I posted it here. Simple answer if you know what to use to glue glass to metal and will be non toxic!

On to the question, I have a first generation Kanger Protank where the body, glass bit, is glued to the bottom metal piece that screws into the Skirted piece of an eGo battery adaptor. One friend was using the glass piece to screw the Protank onto and off of her mod and to refill the ejuice. Short story shorter she popped the glass piece of the first gen Protank.

Big question part, what type of adhesive should I use to "GLUE" the Glass to the bottom metal Piece. Something that is non toxic and will survive the repeated stresses of day to day use that a Protank would encounter?

Thank you for your understanding, Moderator's, the Cross Post.  

What Is This?? Part 2.

Welp, the delightful journey of silly questions and equally silly answers in Part 1 of the "What IS this??" thread is now kabut, as the thread is klosed. So, here is a feeble attempt at Part 2.

(Part 1: What IS this??)

As in Part 1, please post your item in question, or the one with which you would like to stump the crowd, then WAIT until someone finally gets it.

Once someone DOES get it, they are the next to post their item. If they don't wish to post, they can just say "PASS" and then whomever wants to post can just go for it!

If too much time goes by and no one gets or states your item, please feel free to say what it is, then someone else can take their turn at the STUMP!

PM me if you have any questions on these (silly Katdarling) 'rules'.



DPL and I spent WAAAAAAAAAAAAY too much time diskussing/arguing/laughing about this partikular tank.

HE says it was from me, to him. I said NO, 'twas NOT!

Long story short, neither of us know WTH this thing is.

KAN YOU HELP US, PLEASE??? WE ARE DESPERADOS!


 

Unable To Post In New Members Forum

For some reason I can not post a new thread in the new members forum. It always says insufficient privileges. I can post a new threat anywhere else and respond to threads there. Does anyone know how to fix it?  

Recommend An Easy Set Up Please

Hi all, it's been awhile for me. I've been using an ego like battery with a rebuildable ego vision cartomizer since last May. While its rebuildable I have not gotten into replacing parts. The other day I went to reorder cartomizers to find they can no longer be ordered. I have only ever ordered from one place and I am at a loss for what to top my batteries with. I am looking for something really easy to use. If this is the wrong place to post, please move. I wasn't sure where to post since I still feel new but am not new.  

Turbo Rda Review

A couple days ago I met a guy at a party, and everytime he would take a hit of his mod it would make this whirring sound. Turns out he just picked up the new Turbo RDA by Tobeco which was designed by their USA Team "Ohm Nation". I have to say it is very innovative. I have never seen anything like it so of course I asked him the name and where he purchased it from. I finally got my hands on one and its a great RDA with the proper build. The whole design of it is a B+ the reason for that is...the airflow control (which is the upper piece and where the fan is mounted) is made out of plastic which is a big downside because once you get your coils fired up, the plastic SLOWLY begins to met and in my case, melted in peices of the wick. Other than that, the post are wide so it can accommodate lower gauge wires. The posts are also milled into the deck to prevent the posts from spinning and they also give you a super wide bore glass drip tip. Its also constructed out of 304 stainless steel. Overall, i am pretty happy with it and one of the builds that i believe best suits this is 20g Nichrome 5 Wraps. Its super hot, the fan definitely gets put to work and you're getting a lot vapor production.

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As you might know, the mutation RDA has a post on the outside, one large one in the middle with 2 holes, and then another outside post I see a lot of people while building on a mutation putting the leads of their coils in the outside and then the hole further away, as seen in my crudely drawn photo=p i was just wonderingwhy not feed through the closer one, it seems a lot easier? i've been just rolling with the crowd and building using the 2 further ones.  

C'mon Lurkers!!!! Join Ecf!!!!

We should petition SmokeyJoe to offer one of those awesome prizes for the 15,000,000th post to the 223,000 member (if it happens BEFORE the 15,000,000th post!!!!)

Only 68 more members to go!!!!!  

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Just a cool video about mods and tanks... really didn't know where to post this but it is very interesting:
 

45 Days And Still Waiting

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