Ohm Meter Not Working

sorry for newbie question I tonight dove into the RDA world and bought a derringer some wire and a smok ohm meter, I have a hcigar hb 50 and my dual coil build on the HB shows .05, when I try to check it on the ohm meter all I see is 3 dashes no reading at all what am I doing wrong with the ohm meter.  


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Ohm Meter Accuracy

Hi all,

I have a quick question - I have been getting some inaccurate readings on my coils and I'm trying to figure out which is the closest to the real reading. I have an ohm reader I purchased at Mad Vapes that reads my coil at 1.93. I bought a new ohm meter from USA Ohm Meter (?) that reads it at 2.05. The Cloupor Mini reads it at 1.81 and the HCigar Heart beat reads at 1.83. Provari reads at 1.9. It is 8 wraps of 30 gauge Kanthal. Do any of these numbers even sound accurate?  

Zero Resistance Problem

Put a new build on an authentic derringer. Was working fine before...put it on ohm reader before pinching coils...now can't get any reading. Just says .00. Other attys read on the meter. Even simple 28g single wrap won't read either. Any help would be great.  

Usa Ohm Meters - New 3d Printed Meters

I decided to retire my cheesy Eleaf ohm meter and step up to something unique and of much higher quality. USA Ohm Meters is now making 3D printed meter cases with a stainless steel floating 510. Accurate to +/- 0.018 Ohms. Very nice indeed. Can't wait until this thing shows up.






 

How Is This Even Possible

8/9 wraps of AWG 29 Kanthal on 2mm bit should give you around 1.8 ohms, right? At least that is what it has always given me. This evening I was rebuilding a Nautilus BVC like I have done so many times before. Lo and behold I put the coil on the ohm meter and it's reading 0.18. I look for sticking out bits of wire. None. I throw out the coil and start over with exactly the same build as always. Again I get 0.16 ohms. I test it on all my regulated mods... same result on all of them.

How is this even possible?!  

Atomizer Gets Hot

Hi guys,

Is it really normal for an atomizer to get hot especially when using dual coils?
I just created a dual coil a couple of minutes ago using 24 gauge kanthal wire, 10 wraps each on a 2.4mm precision screw driver. My meter shows that the resistance is at 0.4 ohms, being curious and all since this is the first time that I made a dual coil, i decided to test it out.
Got some good flavor and vapor, though the vapor is warmer than I would want it to be ( I prefer cold vapor)

After taking a couple of 5 secs drag, I notice that my atomizer became hot, not warm, but hot. Is this something that I should be concerned about? I am doing something wrong or have I done something wrong when creating my coils?
Please help.

Here are some pictures of my device and atomizer. ( Philbox wood mod running on 2 pcs of AWT 18650 2600mah battery, my atty is Haze by vapehead origins)


 

Coil Master Tester Drained A Battery

This is the 521 mini V2 that will meter or fire a coil. There's a 3-way switch, with off in the middle.
I was sure that it was turned off, but in handling the kit bag, the switch must have been pushed and turned on. Even with no atty on the tester, it completely drained an 18650 battery.

This was confirmed on a multi-meter. 0 volts.
I know that this battery is done, but it's interesting that my charger completely ignored it.

Based on this, I'd recommend not storing the tester with a battery in it. It probably already says that in the instructions. Maybe there's one person out there that didn't know this already, so here it is.  

Rebuilding Kanger Heads , Help Please

I just Started rebuilding my kanger dual coils and im having a issue , seems like when i build them and check my ohms on my meter they are right where i want them but when i put them in my tank and fire them up the ohms fluxuate like crazy from low to high ohms, any idea why it happens ? It occurs even when i build single coils. Anyway to fix this? Thanks  

I Am Stumped On This Kanger Subtank Rba Deck Problem...

So I finally got around to putting a coil on the rba deck...my typical kayfun build, 28 ga @ 1.3-1.4 ohms. Everything looked good, coil tight....raised off the deck...screwed into the ohm meter....weirdness ensues....said 3.85 ohms...took it off, put it back on...said 4.6 ohms....looked to see if the coil screws were tight ...check. both tails tight under the screws...check. The coil deck screwed into the base...yep. No moisture in the base, nope. Put it on the ipv...said 7.7 ohms, then 4.2, then 3.90.............


Put the stock coils in the base, everything normal. Is there something I could be missing in the coil deck??? I got nothing else. No, I had not put the chimney on, so no short there. I may wrap another coil and see....I can only think that something is amiss in that little coil deck....or I am missing something in the build that is obvious. It's a really nice, tight looking coil too.  

Coil Placing Question

I was building my Avocado RTA today and for my second coil, I noticed that I must’ve wrapped it backwards as the upper leg went in the lower slot (the other coil had the top leg going in the top slot and bottom in the bottom). The tank reads on the ohm meter just fine. I am just wondering if I should re-wrap the coil so that the legs line up with the slots or if it’s fine as is? I hope this question makes sense. Thanks in advance!  

Another Question About Batteries.

Now that I have gotten into unregulated mods I've been doing a lot of reading about batteries... well actually I had started reading before but now that I am actually using them I want to know more.

One thing I am a little puzzled about is that you should recharge a battery when it's about 2/3 discharged and you should never charge a battery that is completely discharged. My questions:

1. How do I know the level of discharge in my battery? - I don't own a multi meter
2. What do you do with a fully discharged battery? - just chuck it?