Hybrid Modification For An Rda

Here are Two pics of a hybrid mod top cap I recently bought. As you can see, the positive tab on the battery is directly connected to your 510 pin or whatever it comes in contact with at the bottom of your atty.
Here is a pic of the 510 pin on the bottom of the Atlantis:
The pin simply pushes into a grommet and floats there. If the pin comes in contact with the side of the atty it will short the circuit and if left there will short the battery. Notice how close the pin is to the sides of the atty. If that grommet gets deformed in any way, that pin can touch those sidewalls and short the circuit. After screwing and unscrewing the atty on and off mods, that pin and grommet can move out of its centered position. On a hybrid mod if this atty is over tightened directly onto the positive tab of the battery, the pin can MASH down onto it, deform the grommet and touch the sidewall causing a short. Someone not aware of this with little experience has a ticking time bomb in their hands. Be safe out there.  

Anyone know of any hybrid mech mods? (Direct atomizer to battery connection)  

The center pin on an Onslaught RDA doesn't protrude. I put a screwdriver to it and unscrewed it a little until it protruded. Now it works on a mech mod with a hybrid connection.
Problem?  

OK - so my nemesis clone from FT has been looking kinda ganky lately. The patina had gotten to a splotchy brown stage. The performance has been suffering too. I had ordered a "hybrid style" connecter to delete the top ring with the posi contact. However, in order to get it to fire, I had to back my negative contact screw out a half turn. The button had gotten both finicky (as a result of the backing out of the negative pin - not recommended procedure) and crunchy (wear, dirt, loose fitting, and poor spring alignment). The whole mod felt cheap and I had to keep careful tab on that negative post.

I decided it was time to spend some effort on my old faithful.

I ordered from Fat Daddy their tobh upgrade kit, which comes with a longer positive post bottom screw for my atty, as well as the nemesis ultimate upgrade kit. They arrived this morning.

I stripped the mod down to individual pieces. All non thread, non plated surfaces got sanded with 800 grit wet or dry. Then, every piece of metal (including the rice pin, and careful extra attention to the threads) got cleaned with paper towel, then paper towel soaked in alcohol (common rubbing alcohol). Dropped the whole mess into a cup full of white vinegar and walked away for an hour.

Followed that up with Mr Clean magic eraser coated with Flitz metal polish. Lots and lots of rubbing, but even the threads shine like mirrored surfaces. Then I coated all the threads with flitz and did a lot of screwing and unscrewing of the various pieces.

Follow up the mirror polish with vinegar then alcohol baths. Seal all threads with just a barely there light coating of Noalox. Reassemble using the fat daddy magnets and extended negative contact pin.

Gave my Tobh clone the same treatment, reassembled with the new screws.

What difference! Not only does the mod fire properly with the negative post screwed in properly while using the "hybrid" top cap insert (making the whole rig look super sexy) but the whole unit feels and operates like a much higher end piece. The button feels great, like I've never felt. Super smooth, and the constant pressure resistance from the Fat Daddy magnets really makes the button feel classy and well made, nothing like the light duty springs it used to have.

This mod hits harder now than it ever did. I really used to balk and doubt on all those who would make comments about Vdrop in a mech, and how hard one hits over another. Well, I'm eating some crow now, 'cause I'm a believer. It's not super duper different in its performance, but it is certainly noticeable.

The magnets are almost too strong. I can put the mod down unlocked, and not only doesn't it fire, but the button doesn't budge, and the mod doesn't wobble any more than my stainless SMPL clone sitting next to it. Really makes the button feel heavy duty and sturdy. Quite the opposite of the chitzy cheap feel it had yesterday.

Overall, I am super glad I decided to put some real effort in to fixing all of the complaints I've been developing with this work horse mod. I've had it for eighteen months, and used it as my one and only for twelve of those, so it's been a good and loyal friend. Now it really looks and feels like it's gotten the love it deserved.

Oh - and a super plug for Fat Daddy - fit and finish for all the parts were impeccable. Materials high quality. Shipping fast. Price reasonable. All told, a real class act!  

A few days ago I noticed a new co-worker of mine was a vaper. He had some kind of old, ratty looking mech with some kind of tank I'm unfamiliar with on top. This guy doesn't strike me as the type of person who would be responsible with a mechanical, but trying not to be judgmental, I kept quiet. So yesterday a friend of mine says "look at that guy, what's he doing?" I look over and see this guy dancing around, frantically pulling everything out of his pocket. Out comes an 18650 battery, with a key WELDED to the end of it, still throwing arcs! By this time, his pants were actually SMOKING!!! We go over there to investigate, and he had put a fully charged battery without any kind of case or covering in his pocket with a bunch of change and his keys. The old ratty battery no longer even had the plastic shrink wrap sleeve on it, just a silver cylinder. When it was cool enough to touch, we examined it, and the positive terminal had completely burned away, and it had burned a hole in his pocket about the size of a half-dollar. After lecturing him about using a battery case, we asked to see the battery in his mod. He pulled it out and it was in worse shape than the one that shorted out in his pocked. No insulated wrap, big gouges in the side, burnt spots on the positive end. All we could do was warn him to get new batteries and go about our business. I have a feeling our warnings fell on deaf ears. I even showed him my little $0.99 battery case. I can understand someone not being completely knowledgeable about all the technical stuff, but isn't this just common sense? Sigh.  

Problem

You've screwed your new atomizer into your mod. It's all the way in and works, but the atomizer wobbles.

Why? - Because the positive 510 connector is too long, meaning that only the front part of the negative threading is engaged.

Solution

A shim.

shim
/ʃɪm/
noun
a washer or thin strip of material used to align parts, make them fit, or reduce wear.

Cut a disk the same size as the base of the atomizer, put a hole in it's center slightly larger than the 510 on your atomizer. Slip this over the atomizer 510 and screw it into the mod, wobble gone.
The thickness of the shim will need to match your application. If it's too thick the 510 may not reach the positive pin and no juice will flow.
I initially used a credit card which was too thick (1mm), the positive pin didn't connect. I then used a playing card (0.5mm) and this was spot on.

Why? - The base of the atomizer is now supported, so the free play on the pin does not matter.


Owyhee Mountain Fiddle Shop: Zen and the Art of Motorcycle Maintenance

 

Hey forum folks. I got lucky enough to win beyond vape's monthly prize and chose the neptune V1 hybrid mech mod. It will be making its way to me soon but in the mean time I need to get all the various goodies to make use of it. I need some recommendations for battery, battery charger, and dual coil build for the 3post rda that is built into it as this is my first rda and mech mod.

Thanks in advance  

I can not seem to make my troll rda flush. I keep hearing horror stories with the hybrid adapter so I'm nervous to use it. Any suggestions?  

I have had a lot of mis fires on my Smokless Owl 25.00 squonker and had to press down extra hard

and sometimes side ways to get it to fire.

I just done some contact cleaning and scraping on the Smokless Owl Button.

I took my wifes Emory board finger nail file thingy and depressed the firing button and held it depressed and rubbed it

across the firing pin and then took a small jewlers screwdriver and scratched it back and forth across the end of the pin and

did the same thing to botton ground pin.

I noticed some black color on the end of the firing pin before I started this cleaning process.

I gently took the screw driver and scratched back and forth across the positive and negative end of the battery just to

take any small film or oxidation from the ends just to make a better connection.

It seems to fire now just like it should with no MISFIRES---mod is now perfect !  

So I recently purchased a Pulse X 90w. And I've noticed that the squonk bottle is leaking inside the mod itself. And sometimes juice gets pretty close to the positive battery contact. Does anyone know what may be causing this? Whenever I fill the bottle I always fill it up to about 3/4 so that there is displacement for the tube itself. I get it all screwed down and back in then after a while, or my next fill I notice that it's leaked again. This is becoming a rather annoying problem. And I'd rather not chuck a mod that I just bought because of a stupid issue such as this. Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated. Thank you!